Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Thursday, 27 February 2014

26-02-14, Beinn Eighe and Liathach - Winter Climbing

I have been working in the North-West Highlands for the past four days. Slightly frustrating weather. Big thaw over the weekend with lots of rain, however there is still plenty of snow about. It was slushy on Monday, we climbed George, didn't want to risk a mushy Poacher's. Tuesday very good weather day, walked into Triple Buttresses on Beinn Eighe and climbed East Buttress, most excellent route, remote feel and fairly long and intimidating. The snow was hard neve from the base of the corrie up, surprisingly different to other places in Torridon that day. In general the buttress were dry with hard useful snow on the ledges. Wednesday more driving rain and felt warm, freezing level much higher than forecast! When it becomes dryer and cold conditions will be fabulous.
New difficulties on George, quite banked out I think.
Monday after the 48 hour rain assisted thaw.
Poacher's Falls looking healthy, but not that great an idea in those temperatures.
Awesome Triple Buttresses. 
Broad Terrace approach to East Buttress.
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe IV,5 ***

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