Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Friday, 9 November 2012

09/11/12, Gower, South Wales - Rock Climbing

Dry Riser, Juniper Wall, excellent HVS routes, going across and up.
Scotland looked to be warming up by Monday evening, which it did, so I missed the early season winter action, but it didn't matter. I have had a few great days rock climbing on the Gower in South Wales. It is like a chilled, smaller, quiet Pembroke. Nothing too hard, most routes in the new select guide were sub E2 and we climbed loads of routes from Diff - E1 on 6 different cliffs, some where vertical and non-tidal with numerous girdle opportunities, some were slabby and on the beach. It didn't have loads of classic routes but still it was very enjoyable. Considering it was November, the weather was fair, cold, but not too bad, fine enough to climb a few trad routes with mid stances.

Enjoying another girdle! Fellowship of the Ring E1 5c at Paviland.

The Worm, (Norse word 'Verm' - sea monster)!

You are never far from a clean sandy beach on the Gower.

Sunday, 4 November 2012

October 2012, Antalya, Turkey - Rock Climbing

Geyikbayiri -  at least 2 minutes walk from the campsite!

Alabalik, Geyikbayiri.
 I have been in Turkey for 12 days, rock climbing in Antalya. A great trip with loads of good quality, un-polished, sharp limestone. It was a great base for a hot rock sport climbing trip. The camp site is situated in the middle of the crags, you can walk for 2 minutes to get to them or 15 if you want to push the boat out! It has only been climbed on since 2000 so there is still loads of potential for new routes, I expect the guide book will be double the size in 5 years or so. The rock is un-polished and sharp, and it has been well bolted. Plenty of variety, something for everyone grade 5-8s, vertical walls, plenty of steep walls, upside down stuff, tufas and caves. It was too hot to climb in the midday sun at first - 35 degrees, but we also had some rain. We climbed everyday, there are plenty of caves to hang out in, with reasonable routes which extend into upside down harder things! Olympos was a great day out by the sea, with a slightly different style of vertical, steep crimpy climbing. I will definitely go back one day.
Very good quality routes Geyikbayiri.

Olympos, more excellent quality rock, slightly more vertical / steep than upside down. Good crimps and crozzly pockets.

Plenty of caves in Geyikbayiri to hide from the sun or rain.

Exotic critter, Praying Mantis.