Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Thursday 6 February 2014

06-02-14, Creagan Coire Cha-no, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

 Busy day at Cha-No crag today, 10 teams! Beautiful start, sunny, light breeze, after the second route the top out was very different, wet snow at 950m and windy. 4 days on the top and 4 white outs - I think Karl is starting to get the Scottish winter thing! There was some impressive cornices forming on the east facing crag and plenty of wind slab around the base. Today was about doing some mixed climbing with 2 axes, building on knowledge of rock gear placements by looking at winter gear as well. We down climbed Recovery Gully which is very hard and icy on the Anvil Buttress side, climbed Wile-E-Coyote, then did a multi-pitch abseil descent and climbed Anvil Gully - in good condition with some fine snow ice as well as rock hooks.


Busy on Jenga Buttress, 5 teams!
First top out slightly different feel than the second above!

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