Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Saturday, 31 July 2010


Today I have walked up Snowdon, with a team on a charity mission. The weather was fairly gross, when it wasn't drizzling it was raining heavily, the wind wasn't too bad though. has its launch today. This new company offers group adventure days at a competitive price. All equipment, and highly qualified instructors are included. Gorge Walking, Coasteering, Sea Level Traversing, Rock Climbing, Hill Walking. Which adventure will you choose...?

Friday, 30 July 2010

29-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Jamie and Matt on the final pitch of Light House Arete, Castell Ellin, Gogarth.

This is the second day of a 3 day multi-pitch climbing course for Marle Hall OEC with Jamie and Matt. With drizzle in the mountains and a hunger for excitement we headed to the sea cliffs of Gogarth and went climbing at Castell Ellin on South Stack. The boys enjoyed the intimidation of sea cliff climbing and found the steep VS climbs very enjoyable. We climbed Rap VS 4c and Lighthouse Arete VS 4c. The sea state was slight and sun even paid us a visit.
PJ Mountains can offer Sea Cliff climbing courses, either guided (experience) climbs or learn how to stay safe while climbing. The intimidation factor of an abseil at the start of the day, hanging belay stances, rope work, runner management, may have put you off however PJ Mountains can create a course to suit your needs. Enquire for details on where and how you would like to learn.

Ellin's Tower with Llyn Peninsula mountains in the background.

Wednesday, 28 July 2010

28-07-10, Tremadog - Rock Climbing

I have been climbing at Tremadog with Jamie and Matt today. We climbed 3 routes, Cynychwr VS 4b,4b, Yogi VS 4c,4b and Valeries Rib HS 4b,4b. They have both been climbing before, inside and out, they have also done a few days multi pitch climbing in the past. Today we re-visited runner placements, building belays, tying into belays, clipping runners, route choice and abseiling. The weather was very wet in the mountains and good old faithful Tremadog did its thing and made the sunshine!

Photos - Above, the traverse pitch of Valeries Rib, exposed and balancy! Right, the excellent top flake of Yogi.

27-07-10, Anglesey - Coasteering

Coasteering approaching Porth Dafarch from Treaddur Bay.

Today Steve and myself decided to do something different. We embarked on an epic coasteer journey around Holy Island. We got in at Treaddur Bay and journeyed our way along the coast line, climbing, swimming and jumping past Porth Dafarch and along to Porth Ruffydd. The sea state was slight and the temperature fairly warm - more than ideal for coasteering. We had a quick coffee break at 5 then headed back for more with a traverse of North Stack, getting in at Main Cliff and finishing near Tsunami Zawn. This part of the journey was most excellent, allow a special view of the great climbs of Gogarth from the sea. We climbed and swam a lot of traverse and even managed to find a few jumps!
We travelled about 10km and took us 7 hours.

Photo - Right, start of Main Cliff. Below, the 5c traverse to get to Easter Island Gully.

High jumps off the pinnacle below Scavenger.

Swimming allows for great views of the best cliff in the UK.

The birds keeping a watchful eye of proceedings.

Saturday, 24 July 2010

25-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Steve seconding the last 5a pitch on Diogenes HVS on Main Cliff.

Snowdonia has been very wet and showery of late. I have been working with various children of all ages from around the country, Gorge Walking and Rock Climbing. The rivers have been full and the mountain crags wet, however the weather on the coast has been slightly better. I spent Thursday and Friday climbing on the sea cliffs at Gogarth, North Stack on the far NW coast of Anglesey. We enjoyed glorious sunshine, and calm seas on both days. A low tide early afternoon enabled us to approach Main Cliff and Easter Island Gully.
We climbed Tape Worm, Ahriman, The Hustler and Diogenes all graded HVS.
If you would like to learn how to stay safe while sea cliff climbing or would like to experience multi pitch climbing at Gogarth, please visit for Sea Cliff Climbing courses.

The base of Easter Island Gully.

Gogarth Bay and South Stack.

Friday, 16 July 2010

16-07-10, Snowdonia - Rock Climbing

View from the top of Tremadog crag Pant Ifan

I have been very busy the last few weeks working for various outdoor centres in Snowdonia on adventurous activity programmes, working with primary, secondary school children as well as adults. The weather has been mixed, some sun, heavy rain and gales, making for interesting conditions while, rock climbing, kayaking, canoeing, gorge walking, sea level traversing, coasteering and surfing. I have been working with a secondary school from Somerset for Bryn y Mor. On Wednesday we went to Holy Head mountain on Anglesey and climbed four 2 pitch routes of about VD with Meridith and Shirley. Thursday I was at Tremadog and climbed Scratch VS 4a,4b,4b,4b giving a first experience of multi-pitch climbing for Steven and Charlie. Today myself and Matt took the whole team up the Afon Ddu gorge, which was fairly high from the heavy rain over the last couple of days.

Charlie seconding pitch 3 of Scratch. (Left)
Steve climbing Sea Panther E1 5a, a few weeks ago when it was dry! (Right)