Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Sunday, 13 June 2010

13-06-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Matt seconding ' Grab the Slab - E1 5b' at Porth Fynnon

I spent last week climbing in Pembroke with Matt. The weather was wet initially but in general stayed dry and cloudy. We visited Mother Carey's (photo - right) and St Govan's East and West in the South, Porth Fynnon, Craig Caerfai, Initiation Slabs and Carreg y Barcud in the North. We climbed many routes between VS and E2. Bird restrictions, high water being early afternoon and the MOD using the Range for training meant we visited some regular favourites and some tucked away jems especially in the North.

I have been working at Arthog OEC in southern Snowdonia over the weekend, doing various adventurous activities with a primary school from Bicton. Saturday was a glorious, sunny and still day. Today it has changed once again to heavy rain. The forecast is for dry and settled weather for Tuesday until the end of the week.

PJ Mountains can offer Rock Climbing Courses in Pembroke - Sea Cliff Climbing, Learning to Trad Climb, Learning to Lead, Guided Classics Courses. The MOD will not be operating in the range at all through out August, so this would be optimal time to book.
Matt seconding hidden jem 'Shiraz, E1 5b' - Porth Fynnon

Evening solo of The Crack VD, Porth Fynnon

Sunday, 6 June 2010

06-06-10, Ogwen - Scrambling and Rock Climbing

This weekend I have been working for Kathryn Bromfield Mountain Instruction with Julian and Eddy. They are regular hill walkers that have started to get into scrambling. On Saturday we did some roped scrambling by ascended the right hand side of the Idwal slabs and then climbed up the classic grade 3 scramble Cnefion Arete which lies high in the Nameless Cwm. We climbed quite fast so managed to do a quick route on Clogwyn y Tawr on the way back down as well. Today we went rock climbing and climbed Idwal slabs via the classic VDiff Hope. Along the way the guys learnt various ways to tie into belays, what makes good runners and anchors, managed to build some belays of their own and learnt techniques to abseil safely and efficiently.
The weather has changed over the weekend. Very hot and muggy on Saturday and today was overcast and showery. It looks like the weather is set to be mixed over the next week, so it will take some time for the mountain crags to dry out again.
Photos - Above, Cnefion Arete (grade 3) scramble or Moderate rock climb. Right, Hope VD on Idwal Slabs.

Saturday, 5 June 2010

04-06-10, Langdale - Rock Climbing

I have spent the last 3 days in Langdale, Lake District rock climbing with Steve. It has been hot and dry, generally ideal for high mountain cragging! Wednesday we went to Gimmer, and climbed North-West Arete VS 4b, F Route VS 4c, Kipling Groove HVS 4c,5a, Whits End Direct E1 5b, The Crack VS 4b,4c,4c and Intern E1 5b,5a. some great routes and wonderful rock. Thursday we went to White Ghyll, I have never been here before and thought it was amazing. Lots of cool routes in the VS - E2 bracket. Today we went to Pavey Ark and climbed Capella E1 5b,5b and Poker Face E1 4c,5b,4c. The crag is very dry and busy with climbers, scramblers and families.
Photos, below- Steve on the second traverse pitch of the 'out there' Haste Not VS 4b,4c,4c. Above - Top pitch F Route VS 4c. Right, green filed of Langdale from Gimmer.