Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Monday, 23 December 2013

December 2013, Anti Atlas, Morocco - Rock Climbing

After Wadi Rum, we went to Morocco, Anti-Atlas to do some rock climbing on the quartzite crags just north of Tafrout. We used a new guidebook Morocco Rock, which is well written, with great photos and descriptions. There are loads of cliffs and crags, facing in all directions, generally good rock, making for some fine trad climbing in a good climate for Oct-April. The guide gives many starred routes, many 3 star routes we felt weren't worth it, but we did climb some amazing routes. Firesword on Dragon buttress was without doubt the best route of the trip. We stayed in Kasbah Tizourgane, the closest hotel base for climbing in the north. They were very hospitable, serving breakfast and evening Moroccan meals. The building was very interesting, once being a medieval fortified village. I would recommend hiring a large vehicle to cope with some of the dirt roads that take you to some of the climbing areas in the Tamza valley.

Golden Compass pitch 1. A fine 2 pitch E1.
Climbing on Ksar rock.

Firesword, excellent 4 long pitch E1/2 route on perfect rock. Best route of the trip.
Top pitch of Firesword.
More climbing on Ksar rock.
Lower Eagle crag.

Outrageous vandalism of art, caught blue handed!

More evidence.
The Kasbah.
Climbing on the south side, Tafrout.

Friday, 20 December 2013

November 2013, Wadi Rum, Jordan - Rock Climbing

Rock climbing in Wadi Rum, Jordan in November. Some excellent world class adventures on good quality sandstone mountains. We climbed many classics, Pillar of Wisdom, The Beauty and Supercrack of Rum to name a few. Met up with some old friends, thanks Omer for some quality descent knowledge. Aqaba snorkeling and Petra ruins added to the mix. A selection of photos below, more can be found on Facebook -

I look forward to some Scottish winter action very soon.

Sunset, Aqaba, Jordan
Supercrack of Rum, Jordan
Satan, Rum village campsite guardian.
The Beauty, Wadi Rum, Jordan
The Beauty pitch 3

Rum Village, Jebel Rum, Jordan
Pillar of Wisdom, Wadi Rum, Jordan
Escape off Jebel Rum plateu.
End of the road, Rum village.

Treasury, Petra, Jordan
Monastry, Petra, Jordan

Tuesday, 22 October 2013

22-10-13, Kalymnos, Greece - Sport Climbing

Styx crag lower off.
 A brilliant 10 days on Kalymnos. Most excellent sun rock experience. Beautiful island, amazing rock tonnes of routes, vertical grey walls, overhanging yellow tufa caves. Scooter action good fun.

Telendos Island.
Ghost Kitchen.


Quiet bay, looking towards Turkey.
Vathy, valley oasis.

Saturday, 24 August 2013

Thursday, 8 August 2013

Monday, 22 July 2013

July 2013 - South West Rock Climbing

Hot, hot hot, probably too hot, but we’re not complaining. Loads of work recently, out cragging / bouldering in evenings. Everything everywhere is chalked and ready! We had last week off, after a day in the shade last weekend on our local crag Llech Ddu, Carnedau, with 4 other teams we drove south. 5 days in South West, was most excellent – Portland, Chairladder, Sennen, Lizard, Dewerstone.
Diocese, traverse second pitch.
Diocese, Chairladder pitch 1.

DWS Portland, Crab Party.
The Lizard.
Dewerstone, Dartmoor.
Climbers Club, Dewerstone.
Climbers Club, pitch 3 - Steep!

Sunday, 23 June 2013

June 2013 - UK Cragging and Work

We have had some fantastic dry spells and now some wet ones. Plenty of evening cragging after work and a trip to Lakes to take advantage of some high pressure. I have been working on some rock climbing courses, giving some technical advice but mainly out with young people on outdoor education residential trips. Here's a snippet SLT and Climbing picture from Gary Smith.
Afon Gain, below the first jumps.
Slip Knot, an awesome VS on White Ghyll Crag.
Tyrolean at Gogarth South, SLT workshop evening.
More atmospheric Gain action.