Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Monday, 24 January 2011

24-01-11, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

Drizzle and rising freezing temperature today. Today Matt and I headed to Coire an Lohcain and climbed the classic Savage Slit V,6 and Western Route IV,6. We weren't sure how low the freezing level was but were very pleased it was about at the lochan, the buttress was well rimed and the existing snow was very hard and icy. A few other teams out, climbing Procrastination and Oesophagus. The weather did deteriorate and warm up, it felt like we were chasing the freezing level up on Western Route. At each belay, good rime and ice were found but by the time we left it was dripping and falling off around us. Looks like a similar day tomorrow, but Wednesday onwards looks to be ace, freezing level down to 600m. This will firm up the already hard snow/ice, should be worth a look over the back again soon. Photos - Above, Me on Savage Slit Pitch 1, Right - Matt on Pitch 2.

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