Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

18-01-11, Carn Etchachan, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

Last belay ledge of The Guillotine with a fine view!

Today Gary, Kath and myself headed back over the top to Loch Avon Basin again. Conditions in Cairngorms are ace at present, the snow is firm and icy, minimal if any avalanche risk, easy walking and great climbing. We walked over to Carn Etchachan and climbed The Guillotine, V,6. A great route quite sustained with 4 good pitches, a mega chimney pitch in the middle, and a cheeky overhanging crux on the last move! There is plenty of hard neve covering the ledges, even if from below it looks all rock. Shelter Stone, was quite dry and bare, Sticil Face not in. Stag rocks also looking bare. Rocio and Owen we out on Carn Etchachan also, they climbed Scorpion and reported it was good. Gary looking up at the impressive Shelter Stone with Hell's Lum in the background.

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