Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Wednesday, 10 February 2010

10-02-10, Beinn Dearg - Winter Climbing

Today was the day I got to climb on Bein Dearg in the northern highlands, only took four visits! Another beautiful day dry, cold and not windy! A long but gentle walk in led us up to base of Emerald Gully IV,4. Dave leading the first ice pitch (right). The top ice fall wasn't formed but we managed to climb some mixed ground to get to the summit. Another team joined us after climbing Fenian Gully IV,4 which was 'full of ice'. Kath and Garry climbed Penguin Gully III,4 on west buttress and said it was very banked out and there were little belays. The snow at the base of the routes is hard neve but higher up it is sugary.
View of the west buttress with loads of snow.

View of An Teallach, looking wintry, ridge would be good but the mixed routes will be buried.

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