Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Monday, 23 December 2013

December 2013, Anti Atlas, Morocco - Rock Climbing

After Wadi Rum, we went to Morocco, Anti-Atlas to do some rock climbing on the quartzite crags just north of Tafrout. We used a new guidebook Morocco Rock, which is well written, with great photos and descriptions. There are loads of cliffs and crags, facing in all directions, generally good rock, making for some fine trad climbing in a good climate for Oct-April. The guide gives many starred routes, many 3 star routes we felt weren't worth it, but we did climb some amazing routes. Firesword on Dragon buttress was without doubt the best route of the trip. We stayed in Kasbah Tizourgane, the closest hotel base for climbing in the north. They were very hospitable, serving breakfast and evening Moroccan meals. The building was very interesting, once being a medieval fortified village. I would recommend hiring a large vehicle to cope with some of the dirt roads that take you to some of the climbing areas in the Tamza valley.

Golden Compass pitch 1. A fine 2 pitch E1.
Climbing on Ksar rock.

Firesword, excellent 4 long pitch E1/2 route on perfect rock. Best route of the trip.
Top pitch of Firesword.
More climbing on Ksar rock.
Lower Eagle crag.

Outrageous vandalism of art, caught blue handed!

More evidence.
The Kasbah.
Climbing on the south side, Tafrout.

No comments:

Post a Comment