Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

25-02-13, Beinn Dearg, Northern Highlands - Winter Climbing

Mighty West buttress of Beinn Dearg.
A fantastic day today, on Beinn Dearg in the North. We made the long walk up the forestry track to the west buttress. Emerald Gully, Finian etc were not in condition, big gaps and ice not fat enough. Penguin Gully however, is in amazing condition. 3 quality grade III+/IV pitches, with some grade I/II. What a great route, it is a crime that it is not included in Ken Wilson's Cold Climbs. Long walk-in, long run but very satisfying. The Ice Hose has a fair amount of ice on it, but the start is broken, there maybe a way around, the middle section maybe climbable? Conditions are still ace at present.
Fat Ice, pitch 4 of Penguin Gully.
Penguin Gully pitch 1.

Awesome line of Penguin Gully III/IV 320m ****.
Ice Hose middle pitches look brilliant, if only you could get to them!
Fine Plateau walk to summit of Beinn Dearg, Inverpolly mountains in the background.
An Teallach.

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