Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Thursday, 22 March 2012

22-03-12, Magic Crack, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms - Scottish Rock Climbing

Coire an t-Sneachda
 I have spent the last couple of days wandering in the very hot and dry Cairngorm hills. The sun has been very enjoyable. Crags are dry, Hells Lum is soaking wet with the continuously dripping snow patch above it, Stag Rocks obviously dry, Coire an t-Sneachda very dry, as looked Shelterstone if a little shady! The Ptarmigan are starting to change colour. Today Katie and I went to Coire an t-Sneachda to climb the classy Magic Crack. It did not disappoint absolute class! **** all the way, the top pitch was sublime, very similar to Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Toloumne Meadows, California, and that is regarded as 1 of the 50 best climbs in North America! The sun was on the face from midday as well, a pleasant summer ascent in March - ridiculous! After that we climbed Fingers Ridge with the slightly wandering direct start. Again enjoyable. Some fairy loose jenga style blocks when you bust out to join the original line with winter scratches everywhere; to be honest it probably would make a better winter route. The Magic Crack however probably a better rock route. Hopefully this glorious weather is going to hang around for some more mountain cragging.
Katie cruising the very fine final finger crack of Magic Crack.

**** Magic Crack, HVS 5a, Coire an t-Sneachda.

Fingers Ridge.

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