Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Friday, 27 January 2012

26-01-12, Sgurr Mor Fannaich, NW Scotland - Winter Climbing

Sgurr Mor Fannaich, 'The Resurrection' takes the 300m centre line up the face finishing on the summit.

Yesterday, after the warm conditions on Wednesday the freezing level fell dramatically overnight, we hoped snow everywhere would have firmed up nicely, so headed to the Fannaichs to try and climb the classic face route 'The Resurrection' on Sgurr Mor. It was a long day with lots of walking but ultimately worth it. The route is serious with long pitches, poor runners and really poor belays in compact rock. The climbing overall was fairly straight forward grade III in guidebooks, but long 300m, we did it in 6 long pitches. The whole face was plastered in icy/neve snow with pockets of new soft. A steady angle, with much of it on an open face, felt very much like an alpine face route, good to climb but poor for ice screws. A great feeling when we realised the top was firm neve, with no cornice, and it tops out on the summit cairn (easily the best belay of the day)! At the moment, its in great condition, but if it has snowed a bit with a SW wind, the face could be a super massive avalanche.

Kath and Garry, heading up the easy alpine face like snow field in the middle of the climb.
An Teallach


  1. Hi Paul.

    Is the photo of An Teallach as of the 27th?


  2. Hi Tom,

    Yes it was the same day. I traversed the main ridge of An Teallach with some clients yesterday, very good condition, lots of the main gullies and coire face routes are in good condition also.