Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Tuesday, 14 December 2010

14-12-10, Black Ladders, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Snow hasn't returned, but the freezing level is dropping slowly. I went back to Tremadog yesterday and climbed a few routes on Bwlch y Moch with James. The sun wasn't out so it was quite chilly! Today Matt and I headed into the Black Ladders on the Carneddau, after a hot (or should I say 'cold') tip that Icefall Gully, IV,4 had some climbable ice. I can confirm that there is still a bit of ice hanging around on the cliff. All of the rocks are black and there is pretty much no snow apart from some in Pyramid and East Gully. There are a fair few ice curtains on the approach slopes on the left and there was indeed several good pitches of grade IV climbing to be had on Icefall Gully. We headed up the frozen but grassy slopes to the summit of Carnedd Daffydd.

There is going to be a new winter guide for the main winter climbing venues of northern Snowdonia. It should be out over the Christmas holidays. The old guide is massively out of date 1988 so this should be a great source of inspiration! and explain where all these new routes have been climbed!

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