Paul James, MIC - - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Tuesday, 30 November 2010

30-11-10, Cwm Lloer, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Snowdonia is in the grip of winter. Current feel of climbing conditions is that it is very cold, freezing in valleys, not much ice, still forming though, snow is very powdery (groupel) and unhelpful, but the turf is definitely well frozen. Classic ice routes and gullies are not in yet, mixed turf routes and ridges are. I have been stomping around the last 3 days, had a look up on Glyder Fawr upper cliff Sunday, tried to climb Twisting Gully (photo, right - pitch 2) but had abandon due to lack of gear and enough ice to progress. I walked into Black Ladders (photo, above) and saw 2 teams climbing, near East Gully and Passendale. I have had good day in Cwm Lloer today with Kathryn and we climbed Eastern Arete (Lloer Spur) IV,4 (photo, below) and Grooved Ridge IV,5. Both good 3 pitch, turfy routes. An inch of snow fell last night and more is forecast tonight, if is warms up a little then refreezes the snow will be ace, however we will have to settle for frozen turf and powder for the next few days at least!

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