08-08-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

'Pigs on the Wing' pitch 2 HVS, an outrageous traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress.

Kathryn and myself went to Pembroke at the weekend. We headed to the Range in South Pembroke. The MOD doesn't fire at the weekend and with it being August, cliffs with nesting bird restrictions have been lifted so we went to Mewsford. The weather was very nice, sunny with a slight breeze, many climbers were in Huntsman's leap and at Saddle Head, but the further away from St Govan's car park you walk the quieter it got. We had a great couple of days climbing some outrageous routes, such as 'Pigs on the Wing' HVS (photo - right, the start!), which follows the underside of a massive roof on Triple Overhanging Buttress, and 'Space' another HVS which weaves its way up some massively overhanging rock of Block House Buttress at a very amenable grade, very spectacular and highly recommended. We also climbed the classic 'B Team Buttress' E1 again an excellent, varied pitch.

Hanging belay on pitch 1 of Pigs on the Wing.


Galactic Co-ordinator, HVS.


B-Team Buttress, E1 5b.

Abseil into Space Buttress.

05-08-10, Wye Valley - Rock Climbing

Jules 'its rock not..' Winter seconding 'The Bone' E1 5b, hoping for that elusive jug!

I have been visiting some friends who live in Worcester. As well as catching up we also had to do some climbing, we headed to Shorn Cliff in Wye Valley. Today has been sunny and very pleasant. Shorn Cliff is situated high in the woods over looking the river Wye and village of Tintern with its old Abbey. The limestone offers great lines and vertical walls, most of which are 20-30m high Trad routes with Abseil points off trees at the top. We climbed various routes between VS and E1 and had a great day. As well as giving us an easy way down the trees also gave us a welcome shade from the sun.

The old Abbey still stands, just!

VS climbing at Shorn Cliff

More VS climbing at Shorn Cliff


The J dog in action again, still looking for 'The Bone' E1 5b

03-08-10, Ogwen - Scrambling

A wet day in Snowdonia today. James, Liam and myself headed into Ogwen to do some scrambling. They both have an MIA assessment coming up and we thought we make use of a soggy day by ascending, Tryfan Fach, and then South Gully on Tryfan's east face, and finished up on Bristly Ridge on Glyder Fach. It was good practice for short roping and decision making. We met up with a few teams of hill walkers on the summit of Tryfan but had the scrambles to ourselves.

31-07-10, SNOWDONIA OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Today I have walked up Snowdon, with a team on a charity mission. The weather was fairly gross, when it wasn't drizzling it was raining heavily, the wind wasn't too bad though.

www.snowdoniaoutdooradventure.co.uk has its launch today. This new company offers group adventure days at a competitive price. All equipment, and highly qualified instructors are included. Gorge Walking, Coasteering, Sea Level Traversing, Rock Climbing, Hill Walking. Which adventure will you choose...?

29-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Jamie and Matt on the final pitch of Light House Arete, Castell Ellin, Gogarth.

This is the second day of a 3 day multi-pitch climbing course for Marle Hall OEC with Jamie and Matt. With drizzle in the mountains and a hunger for excitement we headed to the sea cliffs of Gogarth and went climbing at Castell Ellin on South Stack. The boys enjoyed the intimidation of sea cliff climbing and found the steep VS climbs very enjoyable. We climbed Rap VS 4c and Lighthouse Arete VS 4c. The sea state was slight and sun even paid us a visit.

PJ Mountains can offer Sea Cliff climbing courses, either guided (experience) climbs or learn how to stay safe while climbing. The intimidation factor of an abseil at the start of the day, hanging belay stances, rope work, runner management, may have put you off however PJ Mountains can create a course to suit your needs. Enquire for details on where and how you would like to learn. info@pjmountains.co.uk

Ellin's Tower with Llyn Peninsula mountains in the background.

28-07-10, Tremadog - Rock Climbing

I have been climbing at Tremadog with Jamie and Matt today. We climbed 3 routes, Cynychwr VS 4b,4b, Yogi VS 4c,4b and Valeries Rib HS 4b,4b. They have both been climbing before, inside and out, they have also done a few days multi pitch climbing in the past. Today we re-visited runner placements, building belays, tying into belays, clipping runners, route choice and abseiling. The weather was very wet in the mountains and good old faithful Tremadog did its thing and made the sunshine!

Photos - Above, the traverse pitch of Valeries Rib, exposed and balancy! Right, the excellent top flake of Yogi.

27-07-10, Anglesey - Coasteering

Coasteering approaching Porth Dafarch from Treaddur Bay.

Today Steve and myself decided to do something different. We embarked on an epic coasteer journey around Holy Island. We got in at Treaddur Bay and journeyed our way along the coast line, climbing, swimming and jumping past Porth Dafarch and along to Porth Ruffydd. The sea state was slight and the temperature fairly warm - more than ideal for coasteering. We had a quick coffee break at 5 then headed back for more with a traverse of North Stack, getting in at Main Cliff and finishing near Tsunami Zawn. This part of the journey was most excellent, allow a special view of the great climbs of Gogarth from the sea. We climbed and swam a lot of traverse and even managed to find a few jumps!

We travelled about 10km and took us 7 hours.

Photo - Right, start of Main Cliff. Below, the 5c traverse to get to Easter Island Gully.

High jumps off the pinnacle below Scavenger.

Swimming allows for great views of the best cliff in the UK.

The birds keeping a watchful eye of proceedings.

25-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Steve seconding the last 5a pitch on Diogenes HVS on Main Cliff.

Snowdonia has been very wet and showery of late. I have been working with various children of all ages from around the country, Gorge Walking and Rock Climbing. The rivers have been full and the mountain crags wet, however the weather on the coast has been slightly better. I spent Thursday and Friday climbing on the sea cliffs at Gogarth, North Stack on the far NW coast of Anglesey. We enjoyed glorious sunshine, and calm seas on both days. A low tide early afternoon enabled us to approach Main Cliff and Easter Island Gully.

We climbed Tape Worm, Ahriman, The Hustler and Diogenes all graded HVS.

If you would like to learn how to stay safe while sea cliff climbing or would like to experience multi pitch climbing at Gogarth, please visit www.pjmountains.co.uk for Sea Cliff Climbing courses.

The base of Easter Island Gully.

Gogarth Bay and South Stack.

16-07-10, Snowdonia - Rock Climbing

View from the top of Tremadog crag Pant Ifan

I have been very busy the last few weeks working for various outdoor centres in Snowdonia on adventurous activity programmes, working with primary, secondary school children as well as adults. The weather has been mixed, some sun, heavy rain and gales, making for interesting conditions while, rock climbing, kayaking, canoeing, gorge walking, sea level traversing, coasteering and surfing. I have been working with a secondary school from Somerset for Bryn y Mor. On Wednesday we went to Holy Head mountain on Anglesey and climbed four 2 pitch routes of about VD with Meridith and Shirley. Thursday I was at Tremadog and climbed Scratch VS 4a,4b,4b,4b giving a first experience of multi-pitch climbing for Steven and Charlie. Today myself and Matt took the whole team up the Afon Ddu gorge, which was fairly high from the heavy rain over the last couple of days.

Charlie seconding pitch 3 of Scratch. (Left)

Steve climbing Sea Panther E1 5a, a few weeks ago when it was dry! (Right)

13-06-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Matt seconding ' Grab the Slab - E1 5b' at Porth Fynnon


I spent last week climbing in Pembroke with Matt. The weather was wet initially but in general stayed dry and cloudy. We visited Mother Carey's (photo - right) and St Govan's East and West in the South, Porth Fynnon, Craig Caerfai, Initiation Slabs and Carreg y Barcud in the North. We climbed many routes between VS and E2. Bird restrictions, high water being early afternoon and the MOD using the Range for training meant we visited some regular favourites and some tucked away jems especially in the North.

I have been working at Arthog OEC in southern Snowdonia over the weekend, doing various adventurous activities with a primary school from Bicton. Saturday was a glorious, sunny and still day. Today it has changed once again to heavy rain. The forecast is for dry and settled weather for Tuesday until the end of the week.

PJ Mountains can offer Rock Climbing Courses in Pembroke - Sea Cliff Climbing, Learning to Trad Climb, Learning to Lead, Guided Classics Courses. The MOD will not be operating in the range at all through out August, so this would be optimal time to book.

Matt seconding hidden jem 'Shiraz, E1 5b' - Porth Fynnon

Evening solo of The Crack VD, Porth Fynnon

06-06-10, Ogwen - Scrambling and Rock Climbing

This weekend I have been working for Kathryn Bromfield Mountain Instruction with Julian and Eddy. They are regular hill walkers that have started to get into scrambling. On Saturday we did some roped scrambling by ascended the right hand side of the Idwal slabs and then climbed up the classic grade 3 scramble Cnefion Arete which lies high in the Nameless Cwm. We climbed quite fast so managed to do a quick route on Clogwyn y Tawr on the way back down as well. Today we went rock climbing and climbed Idwal slabs via the classic VDiff Hope. Along the way the guys learnt various ways to tie into belays, what makes good runners and anchors, managed to build some belays of their own and learnt techniques to abseil safely and efficiently.

The weather has changed over the weekend. Very hot and muggy on Saturday and today was overcast and showery. It looks like the weather is set to be mixed over the next week, so it will take some time for the mountain crags to dry out again.

Photos - Above, Cnefion Arete (grade 3) scramble or Moderate rock climb. Right, Hope VD on Idwal Slabs.

04-06-10, Langdale - Rock Climbing

I have spent the last 3 days in Langdale, Lake District rock climbing with Steve. It has been hot and dry, generally ideal for high mountain cragging! Wednesday we went to Gimmer, and climbed North-West Arete VS 4b, F Route VS 4c, Kipling Groove HVS 4c,5a, Whits End Direct E1 5b, The Crack VS 4b,4c,4c and Intern E1 5b,5a. some great routes and wonderful rock. Thursday we went to White Ghyll, I have never been here before and thought it was amazing. Lots of cool routes in the VS - E2 bracket. Today we went to Pavey Ark and climbed Capella E1 5b,5b and Poker Face E1 4c,5b,4c. The crag is very dry and busy with climbers, scramblers and families.

Photos, below- Steve on the second traverse pitch of the 'out there' Haste Not VS 4b,4c,4c. Above - Top pitch F Route VS 4c. Right, green filed of Langdale from Gimmer.

28-05-10, Snowdonia - Rock Climbing

Clogwyn Dur Arddu

I have been working on Adventure Courses for Children aged 10-12 years old from the Wirral over the last couple of weeks, doing various activities including Rock Climbing, Kayaking, Gorge Walking, Mountain Walking, Sea Level Traverseing and Coasteering.

The weather in Snowdonia has been hot, hot, hot which has led to many evenings of climbing. I have been out most evenings climbing in Llanberis Pass (Cwm Glas Bach, Clogwyn Llo, Cromlech Boulders), Ogwen Valley (Clogwyn y Tawr, Scimitar Buttress, Cyrau and Clogwyn Dur Arddu on Saturday. Cloggy wasn't as dry as you might expect, probably due to the snowy winter. The drain pipe on the right hand side of the east buttress was very wet and the top corner pitch of Piggott's Climb was very wet and slimy (effort required! in photo below). Photo - right, Kath climbing the second pitch of Beta, VS 4c on Clogwyn Llo, which is located on the shady south side of the pass, a welcome relief from the suns heat!

14-05-10, Peak District - Rock Climbing

Barni leading Suspense, E2 5c at Lawrencefield - Peak District

I have spent the last couple of days in the Peak District again. Myself and Barni went to the far left hand side of Stanage and climbed 6 routes between Wall End Slab and High Neb. Wednesday was a cold day with some more snow showers between the sunshine - ideal conditions for Gritstone.

Thursday we headed to the limestone crag High Tor which looms high above Matlock Bath, I climbed Original Route which is a classic HVS. A little bit nippy on the fingers so we decided to head further north back to the Gritstone edges, and went to Millstone and Lawrencefield. Photos show Barni leading the sustained, once pegged crack line of Regent Street E2 5c at Millstone (Right and Below) and the classic freighter test piece Suspense E2 5c at Lawrencefield. We stayed until it got dark then headed back to North Wales.

The Peak District has some great cragging with its unique Gritstone (natural and quarried, fine and coarse grained) and Limestone (single, multi-pitch, sport) rock climbing. PJ Mountains can offer numerous rock climbing courses in the Peak District. Everything from guided climbs to learning to lead, courses can be tailored to suit your needs.

11-05-10, Peak Gritstone - Rock Climbing

Gaz seconding Eros E1 5b, Millstone

I have spent the last couple of days rock climbing on the Gritsone edges of the Peak District with Gaz, Matt and Rich. We visited Millstone yesterday morning and managed to squeeze in a couple of routes before it rained. In the afternoon we went to Stanage Popular, which had dried off nicely in the breeze, conditions were good, not too warm or cold, despite occasional light showers we got a lot done. Today we headed to Curbar and experienced some of the strangest weather (even by British standards) ever. Morning was bright and warm, midday, heavy snow flakes fell for 10 minutes then back to very warm and bright sun - bizarre! All in all a good couple of days and my hands are feeling the grit rash!

Photos below, Left Gaz getting stuck into The Peapod HVS 5a, Curbar and Right Matt leading Avalanche Wall HVS, 5a also at Curbar.