Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Showing posts with label Gritstone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gritstone. Show all posts

Thursday, 6 October 2011

06-10-11, UK Rock Climbing

 I have been climbing for myslef the last couple of weeks, enjoying all the variety that British cragging has to offer. During the hot spell last week, Steve and myslelf drove down south to climb on the exciting trad sea cliffs at Swanage and for some sporty portalnd action. Afew days climbing at Boulder Ruckle (photo above) with all its roofs and suspect rock, bolt clipping in Portland makes a great combination. On the way down and back up to wales we also climbed in Avon Gorge, and at Wintours Leap - quite a limestone heavy week! Back in Wales I have had a day at Helsby - a good quality sandstone crag above the M56 near Chester and back for some more bolt clipping on Clwyd limestone near Llangollen. A quick day trip to the Peak to get some finger, hand and arm jamming practice at Milstone Edge yesterday. Hopefully good preparation for a trip to USA at the weekend for a few months!
 Steve, enjoying a rare face pitch at swanage vertical but no roof, Yellow Wall!


 Swanage Falcon.

 Fly Wall, Wintours Leap.

Suttie cruising - Regents Street, Millstone.

Friday, 5 November 2010

05-11-10, Peak District - Rock Climbing




The last week has been very wet both in Snowdonia and the Peak District. I managed to get a bit of sport climbing in at Penmaen Head (Colwyn Bay) before the rains arrived at the weekend. Myself and Kath went to the Peak for a few days, to find dark overcast skies, with occasional drizzle in the mornings then heavy constant rain in the afternoons. We did however manage to climb at Black Rocks and Cratcliffe Tor (photo right - Kath seconding 'Suicide Wall', HVS 5a).

Saturday, 23 October 2010

22-10-10, Southern Limestone - Rock Climbing

Dancing Ledges, Swanage.



Since being back in the UK I have had a busy couple of weeks, mainly rock climbing for fun. Myself and James had a couple of days climbing in West Yorkshire at the favourites of Brimham and Almscliffe. We climbed many of the classic VS and HVS routes.

I had a few days work in Snowdonia with Wiltshire College taking students on a Public Services course out to give them a assessment of their land based management skills for their BTEC diploma. We had a 2-day expedition over Snowdon and Glyders in glorious cold crisp weather and on the last day went to Anglesey to do some sea-level traversing.

I have spent the last 8 days with Kath on a southern Limestone road trip. We headed to the Wye Valley and climbed many of the classic HVS / E1s at Shorncliffe. We also visited Wynd Cliff and Wintour's Leap and climbed the Zelda,HS.

On our way to Swanage and Portland we dropped by the Avon Gorge outside of Bristol and climbed Ken Wilsons 'Classic' and 'Hard Rock' climbs of Piton Route,VS and Malbogies,HVS. The Limestone gorge was, as is to be expected, quite polished and Malbogies (photo below) did seem to be a tad hard for the grade, but was an enjoyable way up the cliff.

We had a day at Swanage and Climbed at Guillemot Ledge, Batt Crack (photo right) and Cattle Troughs, we then had a couple of days sport climbing at Portland. The weather was great, sunshine and not too cold. Portland is a great destination for British winter Rock Climbing.
Upon returning to Snowdonia, we have heavy rain, hail and it is fairly windy.


Malbogies, HVS Avon Gorge.

Kath seconding 'The Laughing Cavaliers' HVS, at Shorncliffe, Wye Valley.

James getting stuck into some good Yorkshire hard work on 'Central Crack' VS at Brimham.

Friday, 14 May 2010

14-05-10, Peak District - Rock Climbing

Barni leading Suspense, E2 5c at Lawrencefield - Peak District



I have spent the last couple of days in the Peak District again. Myself and Barni went to the far left hand side of Stanage and climbed 6 routes between Wall End Slab and High Neb. Wednesday was a cold day with some more snow showers between the sunshine - ideal conditions for Gritstone.
Thursday we headed to the limestone crag High Tor which looms high above Matlock Bath, I climbed Original Route which is a classic HVS. A little bit nippy on the fingers so we decided to head further north back to the Gritstone edges, and went to Millstone and Lawrencefield. Photos show Barni leading the sustained, once pegged crack line of Regent Street E2 5c at Millstone (Right and Below) and the classic freighter test piece Suspense E2 5c at Lawrencefield. We stayed until it got dark then headed back to North Wales.
The Peak District has some great cragging with its unique Gritstone (natural and quarried, fine and coarse grained) and Limestone (single, multi-pitch, sport) rock climbing. PJ Mountains can offer numerous rock climbing courses in the Peak District. Everything from guided climbs to learning to lead, courses can be tailored to suit your needs.