16-04-12, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Pembroke Peaks!

 I have had a hectic couple of weeks since leaving Scotland. A few days work for Snowdonia Outdoor Adventure with Family, Friends and School groups. Mainly Rock Climbing and Gorge Walking, the weather has been cold and wintry, with snow still on the mountains in very small patches. I have had a long weekend in Pembroke climbing with Kath. Saturday was very wet, but cleared up late afternoon allowing us to get a few routes done. Sunday was ace ticking classic routes on range east, a few teams out but not busy! The bird ban has been lifted on Mowing Word so we went there today and climbed the classic Deidre Sud and a few quality gems on the right hand side of the crag.

Riders on the Storm, Classic.

More Riders on the Storm, Stennis Head, Pembroke.

Bludgeon, Stennis Head, Pembroke

The Curver, Mowing Word. Good route, probably often overlooked.

15-06-11, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Jake cruising 'Test Case' E3 5c at St Govan's Head.

I have been doing some work in Cheshire at Bolesworth Castle last week and some more normal work at Arthog Outdoor Education Centre this weekend, on a multi-activity course with a primary school from Shrewsbury. Matt. Andy and I managed to do some cragging after work on Saturday at the steep and bold Bird Crag, we climbed a couple of routes before the sun dissappeared. Plenty of rain in Snowdonia Sunday through to today, so I went to Pembroke with Steve. Glorious weather probably too hot! The range is closed 24 7 throughout June and July and with a rough sea we headed to St Govan's Head, Trevellan and St Govan's East. We climbed many routes between HVS and E2 and got pumped (Pembroke pump!).

08-08-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

'Pigs on the Wing' pitch 2 HVS, an outrageous traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress.

Kathryn and myself went to Pembroke at the weekend. We headed to the Range in South Pembroke. The MOD doesn't fire at the weekend and with it being August, cliffs with nesting bird restrictions have been lifted so we went to Mewsford. The weather was very nice, sunny with a slight breeze, many climbers were in Huntsman's leap and at Saddle Head, but the further away from St Govan's car park you walk the quieter it got. We had a great couple of days climbing some outrageous routes, such as 'Pigs on the Wing' HVS (photo - right, the start!), which follows the underside of a massive roof on Triple Overhanging Buttress, and 'Space' another HVS which weaves its way up some massively overhanging rock of Block House Buttress at a very amenable grade, very spectacular and highly recommended. We also climbed the classic 'B Team Buttress' E1 again an excellent, varied pitch.

Hanging belay on pitch 1 of Pigs on the Wing.


Galactic Co-ordinator, HVS.


B-Team Buttress, E1 5b.

Abseil into Space Buttress.

13-06-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Matt seconding ' Grab the Slab - E1 5b' at Porth Fynnon


I spent last week climbing in Pembroke with Matt. The weather was wet initially but in general stayed dry and cloudy. We visited Mother Carey's (photo - right) and St Govan's East and West in the South, Porth Fynnon, Craig Caerfai, Initiation Slabs and Carreg y Barcud in the North. We climbed many routes between VS and E2. Bird restrictions, high water being early afternoon and the MOD using the Range for training meant we visited some regular favourites and some tucked away jems especially in the North.

I have been working at Arthog OEC in southern Snowdonia over the weekend, doing various adventurous activities with a primary school from Bicton. Saturday was a glorious, sunny and still day. Today it has changed once again to heavy rain. The forecast is for dry and settled weather for Tuesday until the end of the week.

PJ Mountains can offer Rock Climbing Courses in Pembroke - Sea Cliff Climbing, Learning to Trad Climb, Learning to Lead, Guided Classics Courses. The MOD will not be operating in the range at all through out August, so this would be optimal time to book.

Matt seconding hidden jem 'Shiraz, E1 5b' - Porth Fynnon

Evening solo of The Crack VD, Porth Fynnon

06-05-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Ethos, HVS 5a - Carreg-y-Barcud - North Pembroke.

I was working on Bank Holiday Monday with a family group, teaching mum and dad simple rope work skills in order to keep their two daughters of 6 and 9 years safe while moving up rocky steps. The weather in Snowdonia was glorious and the crags looked dry.

The last three days I have been rock climbing in Pembroke with James. Sea state was fairly calm, high tide was late morning, weather was good on Tuesday and mixed on the following days. We visited Mother Carey's, St Govan's, Trevallen in South Pembroke and Porth-Clais and Carreg-y-Barcud in North Pembroke. We managed to do lots of climbing and only bumped into a couple of other teams, which sounds like it was less busy than it was over the bank holiday weekend. Pembroke is an awesome place to go rock climbing, there is something for everyone and it can be as adventurous or as tame as you like! The MOD Range is due to take over most of South Pembroke over July day and night, but they are leaving all of August completely accessible which is great news for climbers, especially as the bird bans will have been lifted then also.

PJ Mountains can offer rock climbing courses in Pembroke this August, weekends or weeks, Guided Rock Climbing or Rock Improver Courses. If you would like to learn more skills or just get out and go cragging and enjoy what Pembroke has to offer. Get in touch and see what we can arrange.

The Hole, E1 5b - Trevallen - South Pembroke.


The Meridian, VS 4c - Mother Carey's - South Pembroke.


Red Wall, S 4a - Porth-Clais - North Pembroke.

The mega - Mother Carey's - South Pembroke.