Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Showing posts with label Rock Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rock Climbing. Show all posts

Wednesday, 6 January 2016

Spring/Summer/Autumn 2015

A lack of blogging for most of 2015 after the Scottish 2014/15 season, ready in anticipation for this season to start! Here are a few photos of some climbing from 2015. I have mainly been working in North Wales on a combination of multi-activity residential school trips, family holidays and mountain skills courses, navigation, scrambling and rock climbing. We have had a big house project on for most of 2015 so trips away have been limited, but we did manage to get to Picos de Europa in Northern Spain during September and a News Years climbing/skiing trip to Cogne/Aosta valley in Northern Italy.

Cervinia, Skiing, had to go up high for the snow!

Imitator, Gogarth, Main Cliff, North Wales.

Classy belay on Shadow Wall, Carreg Wasted, Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

Climbing quietly on Route 66, Craig y Forwyn, North Wales.

Icarus, Rhoscolyn, Gogarth, North Wales.

Britomartis, Gogarth, North Wales.

Picos de Europa, Spain.

Grassy Alps and pointy limestone peaks in Picos de Europa, Spain.

The Magnificent El Naranja, Picos de Europa, Spain.

Naranja, Picos de Europa, Spain.

Mass of Limestone high ground, Picos de Europa, Spain.


Some highball solo sandstone action in North York Moors.


Ice Climbing, Cogne, Italy.

Monte Bianco, Italy.

Ice in Valle Rhemes, Italy.

Alpine ski resorts in much need of some more snow news year day 2016.

Thursday, 27 November 2014

November 2014, Sicily - Rock Climbing

San Vito sea cliffs.
We have recently been on a sports climbing holiday to Sicily. The weather was blue skies and warm, mid 20s, for the most. Lots a quality climbing on the North of the Island, we mainly climbed at San Vito sea cliffs and Monte Pellegrino in Palermo. Routes were well bolted and on a good featured limestone, loads to go at 5th and 7th grade, way more in the 6th with fewer in 8th grade. It was also very quiet, only 2 days out of the 6 that we shared the crag with another team. All in all I would recommend Sicily for a climbing trip in November or December and will most probably return in the near future.


San Vito.
San Vito.

San Vito.
Monte Pellegrino.
Mondello, Palermo.
Mount Etna, steaming.

Friday, 28 March 2014

28-03-14, Neist Point, Skye - Scottish Rock Climbing

'Tourist Attraction', Bay 3.
 The past couple of days I have been rock climbing with Mehmet at Neist Point, westerly tip of Skye. As always Neist was fantastic, good value, long, quality single pitch dolerite routes, where the 1 * routes are actually very good! The easterly winds didn't affect us and the sun was out, fine climbing, fine surroundings.




'Side Step', Bay 3.

'The Old Warden', Cumhann Geodha.

'Bridging Interest', Financial Sector.

Wednesday, 12 March 2014

12-03-14, Ardmair and Stone Valley, North-West Highlands - Scottish Rock Climbing

Garry on Moondance, Ardmair.
High pressure, North-West glorious rock climbing. Garry and I have just had an awesome experience of 2 days cragging in the North-West Highlands in optimal conditions. Ardmair yesterday and Stone Valley today.
Terrace Crack, Ardmair.
The Dance Floor, Ardmair.
Open Secret, Stone Valley.
Touch and Go variant.
Stone Valley.

Monday, 23 December 2013

December 2013, Anti Atlas, Morocco - Rock Climbing

After Wadi Rum, we went to Morocco, Anti-Atlas to do some rock climbing on the quartzite crags just north of Tafrout. We used a new guidebook Morocco Rock, which is well written, with great photos and descriptions. There are loads of cliffs and crags, facing in all directions, generally good rock, making for some fine trad climbing in a good climate for Oct-April. The guide gives many starred routes, many 3 star routes we felt weren't worth it, but we did climb some amazing routes. Firesword on Dragon buttress was without doubt the best route of the trip. We stayed in Kasbah Tizourgane, the closest hotel base for climbing in the north. They were very hospitable, serving breakfast and evening Moroccan meals. The building was very interesting, once being a medieval fortified village. I would recommend hiring a large vehicle to cope with some of the dirt roads that take you to some of the climbing areas in the Tamza valley.

Golden Compass pitch 1. A fine 2 pitch E1.
Climbing on Ksar rock.

Firesword, excellent 4 long pitch E1/2 route on perfect rock. Best route of the trip.
Top pitch of Firesword.
More climbing on Ksar rock.
Lower Eagle crag.

Outrageous vandalism of art, caught blue handed!


More evidence.
The Kasbah.
Climbing on the south side, Tafrout.