06-10-11, UK Rock Climbing

 I have been climbing for myslef the last couple of weeks, enjoying all the variety that British cragging has to offer. During the hot spell last week, Steve and myslelf drove down south to climb on the exciting trad sea cliffs at Swanage and for some sporty portalnd action. Afew days climbing at Boulder Ruckle (photo above) with all its roofs and suspect rock, bolt clipping in Portland makes a great combination. On the way down and back up to wales we also climbed in Avon Gorge, and at Wintours Leap - quite a limestone heavy week! Back in Wales I have had a day at Helsby - a good quality sandstone crag above the M56 near Chester and back for some more bolt clipping on Clwyd limestone near Llangollen. A quick day trip to the Peak to get some finger, hand and arm jamming practice at Milstone Edge yesterday. Hopefully good preparation for a trip to USA at the weekend for a few months!

 Steve, enjoying a rare face pitch at swanage vertical but no roof, Yellow Wall!

 Swanage Falcon.

 Fly Wall, Wintours Leap.

Suttie cruising - Regents Street, Millstone.

22-10-10, Southern Limestone - Rock Climbing

Dancing Ledges, Swanage.

Since being back in the UK I have had a busy couple of weeks, mainly rock climbing for fun. Myself and James had a couple of days climbing in West Yorkshire at the favourites of Brimham and Almscliffe. We climbed many of the classic VS and HVS routes.

I had a few days work in Snowdonia with Wiltshire College taking students on a Public Services course out to give them a assessment of their land based management skills for their BTEC diploma. We had a 2-day expedition over Snowdon and Glyders in glorious cold crisp weather and on the last day went to Anglesey to do some sea-level traversing.

I have spent the last 8 days with Kath on a southern Limestone road trip. We headed to the Wye Valley and climbed many of the classic HVS / E1s at Shorncliffe. We also visited Wynd Cliff and Wintour's Leap and climbed the Zelda,HS.

On our way to Swanage and Portland we dropped by the Avon Gorge outside of Bristol and climbed Ken Wilsons 'Classic' and 'Hard Rock' climbs of Piton Route,VS and Malbogies,HVS. The Limestone gorge was, as is to be expected, quite polished and Malbogies (photo below) did seem to be a tad hard for the grade, but was an enjoyable way up the cliff.

We had a day at Swanage and Climbed at Guillemot Ledge, Batt Crack (photo right) and Cattle Troughs, we then had a couple of days sport climbing at Portland. The weather was great, sunshine and not too cold. Portland is a great destination for British winter Rock Climbing.
Upon returning to Snowdonia, we have heavy rain, hail and it is fairly windy.

Malbogies, HVS Avon Gorge.

Kath seconding 'The Laughing Cavaliers' HVS, at Shorncliffe, Wye Valley.

James getting stuck into some good Yorkshire hard work on 'Central Crack' VS at Brimham.

05-08-10, Wye Valley - Rock Climbing

Jules 'its rock not..' Winter seconding 'The Bone' E1 5b, hoping for that elusive jug!

I have been visiting some friends who live in Worcester. As well as catching up we also had to do some climbing, we headed to Shorn Cliff in Wye Valley. Today has been sunny and very pleasant. Shorn Cliff is situated high in the woods over looking the river Wye and village of Tintern with its old Abbey. The limestone offers great lines and vertical walls, most of which are 20-30m high Trad routes with Abseil points off trees at the top. We climbed various routes between VS and E1 and had a great day. As well as giving us an easy way down the trees also gave us a welcome shade from the sun.

The old Abbey still stands, just!

VS climbing at Shorn Cliff

More VS climbing at Shorn Cliff


The J dog in action again, still looking for 'The Bone' E1 5b