06-10-10, Yosemite, California - Rock Climbing

View from the top of El Capitan looking towards Half Dome.

I have spent the last 3+ weeks in Yosemite National Park, California, USA. It has been an 'awesome' trip. We spent most of the time in The Valley, but had a short foray to Touloumne Meadows as well. The aim was to do some Big Wall aid climbing, but we also did some Free climbing to remember that climbing is fun! Highlights include 'West Face' of Leaning Tower (picture right - pitch 6) and 'The Nose' on El Capitan. We had very hot weather usually 30-35 degrees. Water was a slight issue but it just meant we had to carry more in our Haul Bag! The Valley was very busy (tourists and climbers) as you might expect with it having not only west US appeal but also International appeal, where else can you be suffering for days on end on a 3000ft wall to then be eating pizza and drinking beer within 4 hours of topping out?!

The Ahwahnee - bivi ledge of Leaning Tower (very plush!).

View down to Ahwahnee Ledge, West Face of Leaning Tower.

Easy Hauling on Leaning Tower.

The start of 'The Nose', El Capitan.

'The King Swing' on El Capitan.

Looking down end of the Great Roof pitch.

Jugging on the last day of 'The Nose'.

Topping out.

'On The Lamb', Touloumne Meadows. A glorious 5.9 (HVS/E1) free route after all that slow, faffy aid climbing!

20-08-10, Southern Snowdonia - Rock Climbing

This week we have had mixed weather in Snowdonia, warm sunshine and heavy rain. I have been working at Arthog OEC near Barmouth this week on a multi-activity week. In the evenings I have managed to get a few routes in. Bird Rock and Craig y Merched were the crags of choice for there closeness and quality of route, which can be hard to find in the Merionydd?!!?

Jack and myself enjoyed the steep 'Bolero' HVS 5a,5a at Bird Rock and the excellent, gritstone routes on Craig y Merched, we climbed all the starred routes on Rhino Buttress.

15-08-10, Porth Dafarch - Coasteering

Today I have been Coasteering at Porth Dafarch. Tom, Tom and James have just graduated from Nottingham Uni and are having a holiday in North Wales and fancied doing something fun and adventurous. The sun was out, the sea was slight, conditions were great for climbing up, down and across the sea cliffs inter-tidal zone. We found several jumps into deep water, and ventured our way into some of the deep cut rifts. The lads thoroughly enjoyed themselves and came to the conclusion that it was a far better activity than the tree top adventure they did the day before.

Coasteering is a great natural, fun, exciting, adventurous way to discover the coastline. There is plenty of opportunity to jump, climb, swim and see the great architecture of the rock up and close which is hard to see from a far.

If you fancy getting a group together and going coasteering, in a safe environment with safety kit and instruction included, then visit http://www.snowdoniaoutdooradventure.co.uk/ to book.

14-08-10, Tremadog - Rock Climbing

Another day at Tremadog today, except this time it was hot and sunny! We left a drizzly Capel Curig in the morning to find glorious conditions at Bwlch y Moch. I was working for Climb Mountains with Ginnie and Sarah on a multi-pitch climbing day. We managed to climb several routes, the best of which being the classic Christmas Curry with its superb Micah Finish HS, 4b. Along the way we learnt how to tie into belays, lead belay technique, runner placements and route finding. For a Saturday the crag wasn't very busy, the sunny weather looks like it is going to hold so hopefully we can get cragging in the Pass and Ogwen again soon.

Photos - Right, exposed positions at the top of Christmas Curry, Above, climbing in series on Cynychwyr.

09-08-10, Tremadog - Rock Climbing

Today has been very wet in Snowdonia. I was working on a Multi-pitch Rock course for Kathryn Bromfield Mountaineering with Julian. We headed to Tremadog in hope to find dry rock, however today even Costa Del Tremadog couldn't come up with the goods. Despite heavy rain, we managed to climb 4 multi-pitch routes between VD and VS. Julian has done some climbing and scrambling before, so climbing in the wet wasn't that much of an issue. We looked at placing good runners, building belays, abseiling, double rope techniques and managing ropes on stances. We packed a lot in and Julian managed to use all of his new climbing hardware for himself. We climbed, Boo Boo VD, Oberon S (photo - right), Yogi VS and Cynychwyr P2 VS.

The top flake of Yogi, how do we do it??

That's how we do it!

08-08-10, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

'Pigs on the Wing' pitch 2 HVS, an outrageous traverse on Triple Overhang Buttress.

Kathryn and myself went to Pembroke at the weekend. We headed to the Range in South Pembroke. The MOD doesn't fire at the weekend and with it being August, cliffs with nesting bird restrictions have been lifted so we went to Mewsford. The weather was very nice, sunny with a slight breeze, many climbers were in Huntsman's leap and at Saddle Head, but the further away from St Govan's car park you walk the quieter it got. We had a great couple of days climbing some outrageous routes, such as 'Pigs on the Wing' HVS (photo - right, the start!), which follows the underside of a massive roof on Triple Overhanging Buttress, and 'Space' another HVS which weaves its way up some massively overhanging rock of Block House Buttress at a very amenable grade, very spectacular and highly recommended. We also climbed the classic 'B Team Buttress' E1 again an excellent, varied pitch.

Hanging belay on pitch 1 of Pigs on the Wing.


Galactic Co-ordinator, HVS.


B-Team Buttress, E1 5b.

Abseil into Space Buttress.

05-08-10, Wye Valley - Rock Climbing

Jules 'its rock not..' Winter seconding 'The Bone' E1 5b, hoping for that elusive jug!

I have been visiting some friends who live in Worcester. As well as catching up we also had to do some climbing, we headed to Shorn Cliff in Wye Valley. Today has been sunny and very pleasant. Shorn Cliff is situated high in the woods over looking the river Wye and village of Tintern with its old Abbey. The limestone offers great lines and vertical walls, most of which are 20-30m high Trad routes with Abseil points off trees at the top. We climbed various routes between VS and E1 and had a great day. As well as giving us an easy way down the trees also gave us a welcome shade from the sun.

The old Abbey still stands, just!

VS climbing at Shorn Cliff

More VS climbing at Shorn Cliff


The J dog in action again, still looking for 'The Bone' E1 5b

03-08-10, Ogwen - Scrambling

A wet day in Snowdonia today. James, Liam and myself headed into Ogwen to do some scrambling. They both have an MIA assessment coming up and we thought we make use of a soggy day by ascending, Tryfan Fach, and then South Gully on Tryfan's east face, and finished up on Bristly Ridge on Glyder Fach. It was good practice for short roping and decision making. We met up with a few teams of hill walkers on the summit of Tryfan but had the scrambles to ourselves.

31-07-10, SNOWDONIA OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Today I have walked up Snowdon, with a team on a charity mission. The weather was fairly gross, when it wasn't drizzling it was raining heavily, the wind wasn't too bad though.

www.snowdoniaoutdooradventure.co.uk has its launch today. This new company offers group adventure days at a competitive price. All equipment, and highly qualified instructors are included. Gorge Walking, Coasteering, Sea Level Traversing, Rock Climbing, Hill Walking. Which adventure will you choose...?

29-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Jamie and Matt on the final pitch of Light House Arete, Castell Ellin, Gogarth.

This is the second day of a 3 day multi-pitch climbing course for Marle Hall OEC with Jamie and Matt. With drizzle in the mountains and a hunger for excitement we headed to the sea cliffs of Gogarth and went climbing at Castell Ellin on South Stack. The boys enjoyed the intimidation of sea cliff climbing and found the steep VS climbs very enjoyable. We climbed Rap VS 4c and Lighthouse Arete VS 4c. The sea state was slight and sun even paid us a visit.

PJ Mountains can offer Sea Cliff climbing courses, either guided (experience) climbs or learn how to stay safe while climbing. The intimidation factor of an abseil at the start of the day, hanging belay stances, rope work, runner management, may have put you off however PJ Mountains can create a course to suit your needs. Enquire for details on where and how you would like to learn. info@pjmountains.co.uk

Ellin's Tower with Llyn Peninsula mountains in the background.

28-07-10, Tremadog - Rock Climbing

I have been climbing at Tremadog with Jamie and Matt today. We climbed 3 routes, Cynychwr VS 4b,4b, Yogi VS 4c,4b and Valeries Rib HS 4b,4b. They have both been climbing before, inside and out, they have also done a few days multi pitch climbing in the past. Today we re-visited runner placements, building belays, tying into belays, clipping runners, route choice and abseiling. The weather was very wet in the mountains and good old faithful Tremadog did its thing and made the sunshine!

Photos - Above, the traverse pitch of Valeries Rib, exposed and balancy! Right, the excellent top flake of Yogi.

27-07-10, Anglesey - Coasteering

Coasteering approaching Porth Dafarch from Treaddur Bay.

Today Steve and myself decided to do something different. We embarked on an epic coasteer journey around Holy Island. We got in at Treaddur Bay and journeyed our way along the coast line, climbing, swimming and jumping past Porth Dafarch and along to Porth Ruffydd. The sea state was slight and the temperature fairly warm - more than ideal for coasteering. We had a quick coffee break at 5 then headed back for more with a traverse of North Stack, getting in at Main Cliff and finishing near Tsunami Zawn. This part of the journey was most excellent, allow a special view of the great climbs of Gogarth from the sea. We climbed and swam a lot of traverse and even managed to find a few jumps!

We travelled about 10km and took us 7 hours.

Photo - Right, start of Main Cliff. Below, the 5c traverse to get to Easter Island Gully.

High jumps off the pinnacle below Scavenger.

Swimming allows for great views of the best cliff in the UK.

The birds keeping a watchful eye of proceedings.

25-07-10, Gogarth - Rock Climbing

Steve seconding the last 5a pitch on Diogenes HVS on Main Cliff.

Snowdonia has been very wet and showery of late. I have been working with various children of all ages from around the country, Gorge Walking and Rock Climbing. The rivers have been full and the mountain crags wet, however the weather on the coast has been slightly better. I spent Thursday and Friday climbing on the sea cliffs at Gogarth, North Stack on the far NW coast of Anglesey. We enjoyed glorious sunshine, and calm seas on both days. A low tide early afternoon enabled us to approach Main Cliff and Easter Island Gully.

We climbed Tape Worm, Ahriman, The Hustler and Diogenes all graded HVS.

If you would like to learn how to stay safe while sea cliff climbing or would like to experience multi pitch climbing at Gogarth, please visit www.pjmountains.co.uk for Sea Cliff Climbing courses.

The base of Easter Island Gully.

Gogarth Bay and South Stack.

16-07-10, Snowdonia - Rock Climbing

View from the top of Tremadog crag Pant Ifan

I have been very busy the last few weeks working for various outdoor centres in Snowdonia on adventurous activity programmes, working with primary, secondary school children as well as adults. The weather has been mixed, some sun, heavy rain and gales, making for interesting conditions while, rock climbing, kayaking, canoeing, gorge walking, sea level traversing, coasteering and surfing. I have been working with a secondary school from Somerset for Bryn y Mor. On Wednesday we went to Holy Head mountain on Anglesey and climbed four 2 pitch routes of about VD with Meridith and Shirley. Thursday I was at Tremadog and climbed Scratch VS 4a,4b,4b,4b giving a first experience of multi-pitch climbing for Steven and Charlie. Today myself and Matt took the whole team up the Afon Ddu gorge, which was fairly high from the heavy rain over the last couple of days.

Charlie seconding pitch 3 of Scratch. (Left)

Steve climbing Sea Panther E1 5a, a few weeks ago when it was dry! (Right)