15-07-11, Cadair Idris - Rock Climbing

 Snowdonia has been graced with sunny skies and high pressure all of this week. I was out scrambling with Gary and Kath on Monday and ascended the classy Sentries ridge. We were trying to get some good photos for the new scrambling guide book that Gary is writing. I have been working at Arthog O.E.C. for the rest of the week, but managed to get out climbing Thursday evening with Steve. We made the hour walk up to Cyfrwy on Cadair Idris and climbed Gwydrin, E1 5a,5b which was excellent. The first pitch was a bit loose and strange but the second pitch easily made up for it. Clean rock, great friction and west facing so stayed in the sun till dusk.

09-07-11, Tremadog and Nefyn - Climbing and Coasteering

Last week the weather was very warm and the crags were bone dry. Unfortunatley working in the day time but managed to do some climbing in the evenings mainly in the Llanberis Pass. The dry spell in Snowdonia ended on Tuesday but came back today. I have been out with a family of 4 this weekend. We climbed Bramble Buttress at Tremadog then headed to Nefyn on the Lleyn penninsula for some coasteering. The sea was slight and the weather was most definittly beautiful and warm.

30-06-11, Sea Side Adventures, Anglesey - Coasteering and SLT

 I have spent the last couple of weeks working for Dolawen and Sea2Summit on multi-activity adventure weeks. I have spent plenty of time by the sea side on the cliffs and zawns of Anglesey. Both Sea Level Traversing (SLT) staying dry with clip lines, ropes and Tyroleans and Coasteering, wetsuited up enjoying the swell, climbs and jumps. The NW tip of Anglesey has an amazing coastline from secluded bays and beautiful sandy beaches to towering quartzite rock cliffs. There are numerous venues to do these activities depending on conditions and group ability.

15-06-11, Pembroke - Rock Climbing

Jake cruising 'Test Case' E3 5c at St Govan's Head.

I have been doing some work in Cheshire at Bolesworth Castle last week and some more normal work at Arthog Outdoor Education Centre this weekend, on a multi-activity course with a primary school from Shrewsbury. Matt. Andy and I managed to do some cragging after work on Saturday at the steep and bold Bird Crag, we climbed a couple of routes before the sun dissappeared. Plenty of rain in Snowdonia Sunday through to today, so I went to Pembroke with Steve. Glorious weather probably too hot! The range is closed 24 7 throughout June and July and with a rough sea we headed to St Govan's Head, Trevellan and St Govan's East. We climbed many routes between HVS and E2 and got pumped (Pembroke pump!).

06-06-11, Craig Doris, Lleyn Penninsula - Rock Climbing

More fair weather in Snowdonia over the last few days. I was working for Plas y Brenin at the weekend on a Mountain Leader refresher course. The weekend was designed to cover all of the aspects of the ML syllabus within 2 days, we mainly concentrated on Navigation, Rope Work and Leadership. Today I have been rock climbing on the Lleyn Penninsula at Craig Doris with Andrew. We climbed a crazy 4 pitch route with 2 outrageous traverse breaks - Knowing Her / Fascinating Witches / Scintillating Stitches E2 5b,5a,5a,5b. Very fun and enjoyable, with good holds, gear and only slightly friable rock!

Craig Doris 

 Fascinating Witches R-L traverse.

03-06-11, North Wales Rock - Trad Climbing

 Llyn Idwal and Pen yr Ole Wen.

This week I have been working for a local Ogwen centre called Dolawen (Dorothy Stringer High School) on a multi activity course - kayaking, rock climbing and hill walking for year 9 students. The weather has been fine, some drizzle but generally dry with light winds. On Wednesday myself and Will went to Gogarth and climbed on the Upper Tier, back to Gogarth with Steve on Thursday to Main Cliff with a calm sea. Today I have been out in Ogwen with Tom and Steve, initial plan was to climb in Llanberis Pass but parking was an issue. Cwm Idwal turned out to be a great plan, sun and shade, climbing in a t-shirt! Very hot today, but still some wet seepage lines about.

 Tom on his was to dispatching Demetreus E3 6a.

26-05-11, Carneddau, Snowdonia - Expedition

 Carnedd Llywellyn with Crag Yrsfa.

The last few days I have been working with students from Wiltshire College. The 3 day programme involved a 2 day expedition with a wild camp and a day of rock climbing and gorge walking. Tuesday and Wednesday we walked over the Carneddau over Pen yr Llithrig Wrach and Pen yr Helig Du. Today we went rock climbing at Clogwyn Cyrau above Betws y Coed followed by ascending Afon Ddu gorge. The weather on the expedition was glorious, dry but windy and today it has turned slightly wet! Mountain crags will be out of action for climbing, rivers should still be paddleable tomorrow, or maybe Tremadog may be dry?! 

22-05-11, Learning to Lead Climb - Tremadog, Snowdonia

This weekend I have been working for Sea2Summit on a Learn to Lead Rock Climbing course. The weather has been blustery and  very mixed, so Tremadog has been the venue of choice. Rachael had never climbed a single Trad route until this weekend. With an indoor and sport climbing background the aim was to get used to gear, how to place, extract and build belays and place runners. Saturday we climbed numerous VS and HVS routes and looked at seconding, taking out gear, building belays ad staying safe. Today with another belay partner; Tim, she got tied into the sharp end and led 3 pitches.

Over the last couple of weeks the weather has been wet and dry, despite this I have managed to get out climbing for myself after work, either in the slate quarries or by the coast, Gogarth and Penmean Head.

 Steve on Wild Rover E1 5b at Rhoscolyn.

Matt leading Blue Peter, E4 5c (North Stack Wall) and a team on The Grasper, E2 5c (Tremadog).

06-05-11, Snowdonia and Peak District - Rock Climbing

I got back from the Alps at the start of May. There appears to have been a draught in North Wales - so better get out onto those north facing usually damp mountain crags! I have done some work for Plas y Brenin on a NNAS (National Navigation Award Scheme) Silver Award and Gorge Scrambling for Snowdonia Outdoor Adventure. Last week was warm but also breezy and the crags very dry. I have been climbing in the Llanberis Pass, Moelwyns and on Llech Ddu (The Groove - photos below). Thursday and Friday I have been in the Peak District climbing on the limestone in Dove Dale. Unfortunately the weather has changed and we have had blustery rain and general wetness over the weekend. No doubt there will be somewhere dry to climb near the coast next week!

April 2011 - Switzerland, France - Ski Touring and Sport Climbing

Kathryn and myself spent April in Switzerland and France doing a mixture of ski touring and sport climbing. It was very hot almost too hot for most of the time. Snowfall in the alps has been very small this season, we probably had more in Scotland! A combination of heat, lack of snow and huts being full had to think about where to go. Helena and Chris joined us for a 2 day tour from Arolla to Dix hut and over Pigne d'Arolla. Then we moved over to ski the West Oberland tour, starting from Diaberlets to Leukabad - a 6 day tour with 4 peaks. Fortunately we had a day of powder at the start and most other days were good visibility. After skiing we wanted to do some sport climbing we headed to Provence in France. We spent just over a week visiting lots of crags from Orpierre to Buoux and getting in plenty of rock millage.

28-03-11, Applecross, North West Highlands - Rock Climbing

Today, we travelled to Applecross specifically to climb 'The Sword of Gideon' VS,4c (photo). We have seen it a few times from nearby cliff Meall Gorm whilst winter climbing. Overcast day but dry and cold. On Torridonian sandstone this cliff has a few good looking climbs, Sword of Gideon is the classic and a classic it was, very enjoyable clean and gives three pitches. Excellent friction, slopers and jams, very gritstone like, but better because it is over 100m high! I look forward to more rock climbing trips to the North West Coast of Scotland in the future. I am back down to North Wales tomorrow and then off to the Alps for April.

27-05-11, Isle of Skye - Rock Climbing

Red Cuillin from Suidhe Biorach.

Myself and Kathryn have spent the last couple of days rock climbing on the Isle of Skye. No midges this time of year but we did have a fair good old British mix of weather, everything from thick wet rain to glorious warm sunshine! Yesterday the main mountain area was very wet, but the southern peninsula with Suidhe Biorach was glorious. We climbed a few routes on this great 30m sea cliff, Jurassic Quartz Sandstone, very grippy and solid. Photos - Right, 'the Cenotaph Corner of Skye' Jamie Jampot VS, 4c and Below, Hairy Mary. Today we travelled to the west of the island to Neist point. More great Cragging, at the Financial Sector, this time Dolerite. Very good quality climbing and great looking lines, very much like Fairhead in Northern Ireland. More 3 star routes like Bridging Interest (photo below) and Venture Capital. Slightly more drizzle and overcast today, Snow only here in patches high up.

Bridging Interest, HVS 5a. 3 star and well worthy!

Neist Point at sunset.

25-03-11, Reiff and Stac Pollaidh - Rock Climbing

Today I drove North to find some dry rock. First stop Stac Pollaidh - dense drizzle still at 11am so onward to the sea cliffs of Reiff. With the crag drying nicely in the breeze the sun also soon started to shine, I did some climbing about 10 easy routes in the pinnacle area. I really wanted to head back to Stac Pollaidh and seen as the skies were blue and the rain gone, I headed back. The mountain isn't a Munro or a Corbett, but has got to be one of the best Grahams around. It has a striking pinnacle ridge back bone, when seen from the side impressive cliffs doom above, and from the edges a triangular peak - how mountains should look! I did climbed a couple of routes at about VDiff, they were OK but the mountain is good. It is made from Torridonian Sandstone, rough with breaks, cracks and slopers. Definitely a mountain grit crag though plenty of lichen growth in the big cracks that absorbed the mornings wetness!