17-01-16, Applecross, North West Highlands - Winter Mountaineering

The intimidating view of the Chioch headwall.

 A change of scenery, we left Skye and headed to Beinn Bhan on Applecross. Clouds were fairly set in but rose well above the summits by midday, Skye was still looking gloomy. We did the traverse of a' Chioch, which we have done before but still a spectacular mountaineering day out. Ice appeared to be forming but routes like Silver Tear are well off, and March Hares Gully was full of soft unconsolidated snow.

Traversing the Chioch not far from the summit.

Plenty of snow on the way down.

19-02-13, North West Highlands - Stunner

Cuillin, Skye.

View from Bealach na Ba, Applecross.

Cioch Nose, Applecross.

23-02-12, Beinn Bhan, Applecross - Winter Climbing

A' Chioch Traverse, Beinn Bhan

This week has been very warm, wet and stormy! Not very good for Winter Climbing! I have been working in the NW Highlands again. Luckily for my group of Intro Winter Climbers, Sunday, day 1 was ace, cold, crisp and snow down to sea level. We took the bull by the horns and went for a big route immediately, Chris and Steph had done some winter stuff with crampons and ice axes but Terrance hadn't so had to learn fast! We traversed A'Chioch on Beinn Bhan, a great grade II ridge route (the photos say it all).  The following days we have had serious rain fall, and rising temperatures, 5 and 6 degrees on the summits, which has decimated most snow everywhere. We climbed 'Way Up' on Liathach yesterday, the only thing you could climb! A very soggy experience with some ice fall for good measure. On the other days, we have practiced some navigation, rope work, rock climbing and dry tooling - It has been productive, if not very wintry. Weather forecast suggest a cold snap next couple of days then back to warm ming! But who knows what it will be like in a couple of weeks time.


Beinn Bhan



The Team on the ridge with the impending wall looming.



28-03-11, Applecross, North West Highlands - Rock Climbing

Today, we travelled to Applecross specifically to climb 'The Sword of Gideon' VS,4c (photo). We have seen it a few times from nearby cliff Meall Gorm whilst winter climbing. Overcast day but dry and cold. On Torridonian sandstone this cliff has a few good looking climbs, Sword of Gideon is the classic and a classic it was, very enjoyable clean and gives three pitches. Excellent friction, slopers and jams, very gritstone like, but better because it is over 100m high! I look forward to more rock climbing trips to the North West Coast of Scotland in the future. I am back down to North Wales tomorrow and then off to the Alps for April.

22-02-10, Beinn Bhan - Winter Climbing

The first major corrie of Beinn Bhan (Coire na Feola) with a Chioch Traverse on the right.

Another amazing weather day on Monday. Conditions on Applecross are mint! We headed to Beinn Bhan to check out the back of the Coire na Poite for ice. As we were walking in decided to go straight up North Gully of a Chioch (II) to do the Traverse of a Chioch (II) as it was such a nice day. North Gully (picture - right, looking down) was a little lean, but was OK for grade II, several small ice pitches and a mixed section near the top. Once we topped out of the Gully from the dark and into the sunshine, we were greeted with the view of picture - below. The whole day had a very alpine feel about it, sunshine, hard snow, dry rock, superb views with a panorama of the whole of the highlands looking white. The Traverse of a Chioch is an amazing route especially if combined with the North Gully start. There are two descents down to cols before a big push for the summit. We chose to solo it but you could easily lead it and place plenty of runner, especially where it steepens up at the end.

Descending down to the first col, some loose rock, but good hard snow.

Final summit push with the two cols and pinnacles in the back ground.

Checking out the best route ahead, looking slightly steeper than first/second impressions!

Descent off Beinn Bhan down the long broad southern ridge line, with beautiful white mountain tops of the highlands in the background.

21-02-10, Meall Gorm - Winter Climbing

A brief rest yesterday after 7 days of work, allowing us to pack the van for a few days climbing in Applecross. Sunday was an amazing blue sky sunny day. The relatively low level mountains of Applecross, Meall Gorm and Beinn Bhan are covered in snow and ice. It is very cold at night and in the shade, so the hoar crystals are large and everywhere on top of the snow pack. We headed to Meall Gorm, after an initial attempt of Lobster Gully IV,5 we found the 'well protected chimneys' at the top were far from well protected or grade 5 for that matter. We traversed onto the crux pitches of Blue Pillar V,6 instead, a harder climb but far more climbable! Some dry rock with snow ledges to negotiate - slight alpine feel to it. The sandstone lends itself very well to cam placements, so it is well worth packing a few extra to normal. Picture - right, shows the last chimney pitch of Blue Pillar. Meall Gorm at sunset. The Applecross single lane road (Britain's second highest road) with hairpins bends must be one of the most impressive roads in the UK?