Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Showing posts with label Traverse of a Chioch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Traverse of a Chioch. Show all posts

Monday, 18 January 2016

17-01-16, Applecross, North West Highlands - Winter Mountaineering

The intimidating view of the Chioch headwall.
 A change of scenery, we left Skye and headed to Beinn Bhan on Applecross. Clouds were fairly set in but rose well above the summits by midday, Skye was still looking gloomy. We did the traverse of a' Chioch, which we have done before but still a spectacular mountaineering day out. Ice appeared to be forming but routes like Silver Tear are well off, and March Hares Gully was full of soft unconsolidated snow.
Traversing the Chioch not far from the summit.
Plenty of snow on the way down.

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

22-02-10, Beinn Bhan - Winter Climbing

The first major corrie of Beinn Bhan (Coire na Feola) with a Chioch Traverse on the right.


Another amazing weather day on Monday. Conditions on Applecross are mint! We headed to Beinn Bhan to check out the back of the Coire na Poite for ice. As we were walking in decided to go straight up North Gully of a Chioch (II) to do the Traverse of a Chioch (II) as it was such a nice day. North Gully (picture - right, looking down) was a little lean, but was OK for grade II, several small ice pitches and a mixed section near the top. Once we topped out of the Gully from the dark and into the sunshine, we were greeted with the view of picture - below. The whole day had a very alpine feel about it, sunshine, hard snow, dry rock, superb views with a panorama of the whole of the highlands looking white. The Traverse of a Chioch is an amazing route especially if combined with the North Gully start. There are two descents down to cols before a big push for the summit. We chose to solo it but you could easily lead it and place plenty of runner, especially where it steepens up at the end.

Descending down to the first col, some loose rock, but good hard snow.

Final summit push with the two cols and pinnacles in the back ground.


Checking out the best route ahead, looking slightly steeper than first/second impressions!


Descent off Beinn Bhan down the long broad southern ridge line, with beautiful white mountain tops of the highlands in the background.