10-03-10, Glen Coe - Winter Climbing

The last couple of days we have had more high

pressure weather. No winds, cold in the shade, ice in abundance, most snow is hard neve, sugary in places but mainly hard. Yesterday I was climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh near Bridge of Orchy. We climbed Taxus III, a nice ice route. Most of the routes are in good condition at the moment. Today we headed into Stob Coire nam Beith to climb on the massess of ice at the bottom of the crag. There is lots of snow in the corrie, and the gorge; which is non existent, filled in from an avalanche two weeks ago. Again there is lots of Ice and the routes look in great condition, the easier gullies maybe a little banked out. the west face of Aonach Dubh, looks in good condition holding lots of ice in Number 6,5 and 3 gullies and The Screen. The forecast is for warmer temperatures and some precipitation tomorrow, but hopefully normal service will resume on Friday! Photos, Right - Tamsin climbing Ice at the bottom of Stob Coire nam Beith, Below - myself climbing ice/snow on the second pitch of Taxus, Above - Stu climbing ice in Stob Coire nam Beith.

25-01-10, Glen Coe - Winter Climbing

Monday has been a great day with the weather and the climbing. With there being so much snow in the Cairngorms, Kathryn and Myself headed over to the west, Glen Coe. Both of us have always wanted to climb the ultra classic Number 6 Gully (IV,4) on the west face of Aonach Dubh. With its relatively low altitude (by modern times) it hasn't formed readily the last 10 years or so. People have been climbing this route for the last couple of weeks so we hoped there would be some ice left. It was a good route but definitely showing signs of being hacked up and the very bottom may fall off if the next thaw lasts (Elliot's Downfall VI,6 fell down on Saturday). It gave us two nice ice pitches and a bit of snow plodding! Having finished the route at midday we walked over to the base of Stob Coire nam Beith (picture - right) to have a look at Deep-Cut Chimney (IV,4). This route gave us 4 good pitches of ice and mixed climbing. Pitch 1 had a overhanging block crux,with good hooks and good gear. Pitch 2 was ice (below).

The crux of the route for us was the third pitch with a left variation. Ice was thin and precarious, gear wasn't very satisfying (below)! After about 200m of climbing you can traverse off left across the mountain at mid-height following your nose between the gully lines and ledges.