10-03-10, Glen Coe - Winter Climbing

The last couple of days we have had more high

pressure weather. No winds, cold in the shade, ice in abundance, most snow is hard neve, sugary in places but mainly hard. Yesterday I was climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh near Bridge of Orchy. We climbed Taxus III, a nice ice route. Most of the routes are in good condition at the moment. Today we headed into Stob Coire nam Beith to climb on the massess of ice at the bottom of the crag. There is lots of snow in the corrie, and the gorge; which is non existent, filled in from an avalanche two weeks ago. Again there is lots of Ice and the routes look in great condition, the easier gullies maybe a little banked out. the west face of Aonach Dubh, looks in good condition holding lots of ice in Number 6,5 and 3 gullies and The Screen. The forecast is for warmer temperatures and some precipitation tomorrow, but hopefully normal service will resume on Friday! Photos, Right - Tamsin climbing Ice at the bottom of Stob Coire nam Beith, Below - myself climbing ice/snow on the second pitch of Taxus, Above - Stu climbing ice in Stob Coire nam Beith.

04-02-10, Beinn an Dothaidh - Winter Climbing

A lot of fresh snow fell over night all over the highlands with a strong southerly wind. We stayed in the Southern Highlands and walked into Beinn an Dothaidh east corrie. We had a few hours of clear sky in the middle of the day (below - mountains south of Glen Etive, plastered in snow) however most of it was claggy. Lots of snow has accumulated on North and West facing slopes. There was about 1 foot of fresh snow on a hard base, making it very easy to slide. We avoided big areas of deep snow and found the crag and tried to climb Menage a Trois V,6. After battling up the first pitch (right), trying to find frozen turf which was buried under powder, came the second steep wall to enter a groove. I dabbled with the second pitch, getting about 5 metres off the ledge when my axe came out unexpectedly. A slow motion fall, but good landing and a second attempt but thwarted by too much soft snow hiding the rock hooks and turf. We abseiled off and retired graciously!