10-02-16, Torridon, Glen Carron - Winter Mountaineering

I have just spent 3 days in North West Highlands, Munro bagging with Simon. It is wintry over there, with snow above 600m, plenty of rime on the rocks, not so much ice however. The freezing level seemed to rise to or above the summits most days making the snow turn heavy by midday. We had a great time on Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Lieth Mhor-Sgorr Ruadh, despite the visibility not always showing Torridon in its fine glory!

Northern Pinnacles, Liathach.

Descending on Horns of Alligin.

Horns of Alligin.

About as close to sunshine as we got from Monday!

Coire Lair.

Sgorr Ruadh and some deer girls.

Liathach the start of the ridge.

Liathach on the way up Spidean Coire Leith.

On the Liathach Pinnacles.

26-02-14, Beinn Eighe and Liathach - Winter Climbing

I have been working in the North-West Highlands for the past four days. Slightly frustrating weather. Big thaw over the weekend with lots of rain, however there is still plenty of snow about. It was slushy on Monday, we climbed George, didn't want to risk a mushy Poacher's. Tuesday very good weather day, walked into Triple Buttresses on Beinn Eighe and climbed East Buttress, most excellent route, remote feel and fairly long and intimidating. The snow was hard neve from the base of the corrie up, surprisingly different to other places in Torridon that day. In general the buttress were dry with hard useful snow on the ledges. Wednesday more driving rain and felt warm, freezing level much higher than forecast! When it becomes dryer and cold conditions will be fabulous.

New difficulties on George, quite banked out I think.

Monday after the 48 hour rain assisted thaw.

Poacher's Falls looking healthy, but not that great an idea in those temperatures.

Awesome Triple Buttresses. 

Broad Terrace approach to East Buttress.

East Buttress, Beinn Eighe IV,5 ***

26-03-13, Liathach, Torridon - Winter Climbing

Salmon Leap

Poachers Falls, Pitch 1

Poachers Falls, Pitch 2

Poachers Falls, Pitch 2

Poachers Falls, Pitch 1

11-03-13, Liathach, Torridon, North-West Highlands - Winter Climbing

Classic Torridon.

Another week of North West paradise in the diary this week. I am working on a Moran Mountain Intro Winter Climber course. Terrance and I went to Liathach to do some ice climbing. Poachers Fall, The Salmon Leap and Umbrella Fall are looking in tremendous condition. The hard neve is still in abundance with only a slight dusting of new snow to speak of. We climbed George (obviously my favorite route up here!) but finished with the Sinister Prong. This was well iced and had a couple of bulging vertical pitches, great value at IV,5. Topped out to yet another stunning Liathach view - 'you've got to love the north west when there's high pressure (why aye)'.

Terrance approaching Spidean.

Top of first steep crux of Sinister Prong.

Pleased to be at the top of the difficulties.

Approach slopes.

Spidean - 'rime ice bigger than man'.

I never bore of taking this shot!

View from the office today!

28-02-13, Liathach, Torridon - Winter Climbing

The crux of George, great sticky ice today.

A slight change in proceedings today, the clag and warmth was in and the drizzle had everyone in gore-tex from the minibus. It was a bit of a shock for everyone as the weather has been so fabulous, the mojos were taking a dive! We headed around the back of Liathach to climb the ever reliable George, III,4. The corrie snow was starting to thaw and slush, the ice was chewy and very climbable as to be expected in these conditions!

Umbrella  Falls and Poachers still there just.

21-02-13, Liathach, Torridon - Winter Climbing

Liathach - Beinn Alligin - Beinn Dearg.

 Last day of Intro Winter Climbing course in the North-west. Another stonker of a day, very fine weather, all lying snow is bomber neve. We climbed George on the north side of Liathach. It is in great condition. There is ice on the back wall of Spidean Choire Liath, but I am suspect as to how attached Poachers Falls is!

Top of George.

Glorious bomber neve on the summit slopes.

Classic Liathach snow ridge.

Beinn Dearg.

Spidean Choire Liath.

The approach.

12-01-13, Liatach, Torridon - Winter Mountaineering

Below Am Fasarinen on the Liatach Traverse.

Today I have been out working with Garry in the Torridon. We took a bunch of friends along Liatach. A tremendous day which the team enjoy despite the thought of having the one and a half hour drive from Aviemore! Conditions underfoot were slightly wintry - a little old snow with a dusting of snow on top, some ice on steps, frozen turf at 700m. It was a lovely high pressure day with some great views of the other Torridonian mountains - Ace!

Heading upto Spidean a'Choire Leith.

Mullach an Rathain and Beinn Alligan.

Spidean a'Choire Leith with Beinn Eighe in the background.

02-03-10, Liathach - Winter Mountaineering

Beinn Alligan and Beinn Dearg, Torridon from Liathach

Today I went to Torridon, in the hope that the rumours of there being less snow in the North West were true. It is true, and the sun shone. I did the Liathach Main Ridge Traverse II. This is a marvelous high level ridge route that links 5 peaks with 2 Munros. It is mainly walking but has several technical grade II moves ascending and descending the Pinnacles section in the middle. There is less snow in Torridon and looks like Applecross and Sgurr Ruadh have escaped the last great dump also. This is good for climbing conditions, as it allows us to get to and from the routes with out being avalanched and all the ice and rock hasn't been buried. The snow is firm on the north face and there is a fair amount of ice present, however there is some windslab about in places. I wouldn't have thought any climbing is happening in the Cairngorms or on Creag Meagaidh but people have been climbing the low level ice routes on the west and Beinn Udlaidh right hand side, but to be honest the North West is where it is at. I will be heading back there sometime this week.

Easy ridge walking between 'The Pinnacles'


Pinnacles and Mullach an Rathain