Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Showing posts with label Beinn Eighe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beinn Eighe. Show all posts

Tuesday, 25 March 2014

24-03-14, North West Highlands

Alternative view into the back of Beinn Eighe, Liathach, Beinn Dearg, Beinn Alligin.
Beinn Dearg and Sgurr Mor.
Sgurr Mor - 'The Resurrection'
Watch the road! An Teallach.
An Teallach.
An Teallach.
Gruinard Bay.
Beinn Eighe, Triple Buttresses, straight line view into 'Morrison's Gully' on the right.

Thursday, 27 February 2014

26-02-14, Beinn Eighe and Liathach - Winter Climbing


I have been working in the North-West Highlands for the past four days. Slightly frustrating weather. Big thaw over the weekend with lots of rain, however there is still plenty of snow about. It was slushy on Monday, we climbed George, didn't want to risk a mushy Poacher's. Tuesday very good weather day, walked into Triple Buttresses on Beinn Eighe and climbed East Buttress, most excellent route, remote feel and fairly long and intimidating. The snow was hard neve from the base of the corrie up, surprisingly different to other places in Torridon that day. In general the buttress were dry with hard useful snow on the ledges. Wednesday more driving rain and felt warm, freezing level much higher than forecast! When it becomes dryer and cold conditions will be fabulous.
New difficulties on George, quite banked out I think.
Monday after the 48 hour rain assisted thaw.
Poacher's Falls looking healthy, but not that great an idea in those temperatures.
Awesome Triple Buttresses. 
Broad Terrace approach to East Buttress.
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe IV,5 ***

Friday, 3 February 2012

03-02-12, An Teallach, Beinn Alligin, NW Highlands - Winter Mountaineering

An Teallach with Sgurr Fiona.
The last week I have been working in the North West of Scotland on a Winter Mountaineering Course for Martin Moran. Conditions and weather have been fantastic all week. Snow level around 750m, has been stable and crispy! Cold in the evenings with plenty of flat ice about on the paths and bogs. I was out with 3 clients all week, for some it was the first week on crampons for others it was a week to brush off the cobwebs and make the most of the fine NW mountaineering ridges. The first day Sunday we headed to Fuar Tholl, and climbed Access Gully (II), in slightly soggy condition, but by Monday morning everything had refrozen hard, A traverse of Beinn Alligin (I), looking at rope work over the horns, Traverse of the Black Carls (I) on Beinn Eighe, then a bothy trip with a traverse of An Teallach (II). Climbing conditions are excellent at the moment, hard bomber neve and ice in gullies and some ice and rime ice on the faces.

The Horns on Beinn Alligin, Beinn Dearg and Beinn Eighe in the distance.

The Black Carls, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe, Beinn Eighe.

The Black Carls, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe, Beinn Eighe.

Eag Dubh, Beinn Alligin.

Beinn Dearg Mor, Loch na Sealga, An Teallach.

Toll an Lochain, An Teallach.

Traversing on the side of the fourth pinnacle of Corrag Bhuidhe, An Teallach.

An Teallach ridge Corrag Bhuidhe.

An Teallach ridge from Sail Liath.

Richard, very happy after completing the An Teallach ridge.