July 2013 - South West Rock Climbing

Hot, hot hot, probably too hot, but we’re not complaining. Loads of work recently, out cragging / bouldering in evenings. Everything everywhere is chalked and ready! We had last week off, after a day in the shade last weekend on our local crag Llech Ddu, Carnedau, with 4 other teams we drove south. 5 days in South West, was most excellent – Portland, Chairladder, Sennen, Lizard, Dewerstone.

Diocese, traverse second pitch.

Diocese, Chairladder pitch 1.

DWS Portland, Crab Party.

The Lizard.

Dewerstone, Dartmoor.

Climbers Club, Dewerstone.

Climbers Club, pitch 3 - Steep!

30-03-12, Agag's Groove, Buachaille Etive Mor, Glen Coe - Scottish Rock Climbing

The top of Crowberry Ridge.

 I have spent the last few days cragging, locally near Grantown and slightly less locally near Aberdeen, on some glorious granite sea cliffs, worth a shifty, check out the NE Outcrops guide! Today I was out with Stephen and Andy again, day 2 of their winter climbing course. Last time we were getting involved with some icy cave action on Gardyloo Gully, since then its been scorchio, and I suggested that it would be rude not to go rock climbing in the mountains! Agag's Groove, VD on Rannoch Wall, Buachaille Etive Mor was the route, and what a fine route it is. 4 Pitches of great steep, exposed and sustained (by VD standards) climbing. We thought about abseiling down to climb January Jigsaw also, but seen as we were on a tight schedule and the sun came out with blue skies, we scrambled the rest of Crowberry ridge to the summit. Quality!

Pitch 3 of Agag's Groove, Rannoch Wall

27-03-12, The Needle, Shelterstone, Cairngorms - Scottish Rock Climbing



The mighty, Shelterstone Crag.

More classic rock routes on the mountain crags of Scotland. Today The Needle on Shelterstone. This route is a blast from start to finish, it certainly lived up to the hype! The whole crag is seriously impressive, good quality granite all the way up 250m or so. I can't wait to get back there! There was another team here today, all bone dry and not really that cold in the shade either. A few teams were climbing on Stag Rocks and Hells Lum which are in the sun nearly all day, a few teams also climbing in Coire an t-Sneachda.

The Needle, halfway up.

The Needle final crack pitch.

Loch Avon.

Shelterstone.

Hells Lum, drying out - it is in the sun for most of the day!

25-03-12, Hammer/Trapeze, Glen Etive, Glen Coe - Scottish Rock Climbing



Hammer, Etive Slabs. The cheeky bold scoop followed by the sublime lay back corner crack.

The high pressure is firmly over us in Scotland and most probably the rest of the UK. Its halfway through March but the Mountain crags are in primo rock climbing condition! If you have work on this week, don't go, unless your crag is the office. Visit Mountain Expertise for more on this. I have had a great weekend with Francis climbing on the West. Hammer on Etive Slabs on Saturday - a most excellent lay back crack line, with some cheeky forays onto the bold slabs occasionally to heighten the senses! Sunday it was up to the west face of Aonach Dubh. We had hoped to climb The Big Top but there was already a team on it with another getting ready. We climbed Trapeze, which was brilliant - 4 pitches the last 3 giving good quality sensational climbing sometimes exposed and pumpy. The crag is dry and was very warm in the shade, the sun catches it in the afternoon.

Ben Starav, Glen Etive.

Best footpath in Scotland? The Rhyolite Romp, under west face of Aonach Dubh.

Awesome situation on The Big Top.

Trapeze, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe - the 3rd slab pitch.

The Big Top, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe - last pitch.

Funky Rhyolite.

23-03-12, Ardverikie Wall, Central Highlands - Scottish Rock Climbing



Ardverikie Wall, HS 4b, Scottish Mega route!

Another day in this prime Scottish rock climbing season of mid March! This time another 4 star must do classic; which has been on my hit list for quite awhile - Ardverikie Wall HS 4b 185m. Katie and I had a leisurely 11:30 start from the car park lay by, fine weather throughout the day, a slight occasional breeze, but nothing to complain about. The route was ace, 5 very good pitches on immaculate rock, ranging from vertical jugs, to delicate slabs, very interesting to climb. The guidebook claims it to be the best route of its grade in the country and I have to agree!



Up the pillar of rock just right if centre.