13-03-13, Sgorr Ruadh, Glen Carron, North West Highlands - Winter Climbing

Fuar Tholl and Sgorr Ruadh.

Something slightly easier requested today - so that will obviously be Easy Gully, II on Sgorr Ruadh then! Ridiculous name, ridiculous grade. It was definitely still grade III today as it was a couple of weeks ago. The first proper pitch has a significant steepening, on helpful hard neve, but steeper than II. There was some powdery snow on the lower pitches but the top half was excellent hard neve. Another beautiful blue bird sky, it did change by 3 with some new snowfall and cloud but still very pleasant.

Easy Gully.

Terrance on the approach slope.

Meall nan Ceapairean.

Fuar Tholl.

At the top of the steepening on pitch 1.

12-03-13, Druim Shionnach, Glen Shiel - Winter Climbing

Terrance enjoying the second steep pitch.

A more wintry day in Glen Shiel today. Terrance has climbed a grade IV ice climb yesterday so we had a mixed climb on the cards. Walking into Druim Shionnach we were happy to see the crags well frozen with a dusting of snow. There was some wind slab forming around the base of the crag and on the upper snow slope bowl of Cave Gully. We climbed Boxer's Buttress, which gave 2 good mixed turfy grade IV pitches, then an easier grade II pitch and a snow plod to the summit. There is some ice about but I think it is mainly the turfy mixed climbs which are in condition on these crags at the moment.

Coire an t-Slugain, Glen Shiel.

Summit snow wind Druim Shionnach.

Approach, winter again.

At the top of the first pitch.

Druim Shionnach West Face.

11-03-13, Liathach, Torridon, North-West Highlands - Winter Climbing

Classic Torridon.

Another week of North West paradise in the diary this week. I am working on a Moran Mountain Intro Winter Climber course. Terrance and I went to Liathach to do some ice climbing. Poachers Fall, The Salmon Leap and Umbrella Fall are looking in tremendous condition. The hard neve is still in abundance with only a slight dusting of new snow to speak of. We climbed George (obviously my favorite route up here!) but finished with the Sinister Prong. This was well iced and had a couple of bulging vertical pitches, great value at IV,5. Topped out to yet another stunning Liathach view - 'you've got to love the north west when there's high pressure (why aye)'.

Terrance approaching Spidean.

Top of first steep crux of Sinister Prong.

Pleased to be at the top of the difficulties.

Approach slopes.

Spidean - 'rime ice bigger than man'.

I never bore of taking this shot!

View from the office today!

10-03-13, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairgorms

Perfect start to the day.

Another quiet day in the northern corries only a few teams climbing, very fine conditions in the morning with the weather deteriorating in the afternoon.

09-03-13, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

Fiaciall Buttress, well rimed and scoured approach.

 Regular Winter service has resumed! plenty of wind and bitterly cold easterly wind. Some new snow drifting and cross loading many slope aspects. We found some very scoured slopes under Fiaciall and a well rimed buttress. We climbed Invernookie, very class, bomber neve everywhere and even though it was cold it was very pleasant. The corries were very quiet. We saw 2 other climbing teams and a few skills groups but not many people at all (probably having it on Ben Nevis).

Bomber Neve.

Enjoying winter climbing!

06-03-13, Ben Nevis - Winter Climbing

Compression Crack pitch 1 thanks for the photo Garry.

On the Ben again with Garry, ice still awesome, we left a lot of kit on the mountain yesterday so we could walk in casually with lite sacks. We wandered up to try and climb Raeburn's Buttress but there was already another team on it, Boomer's Requiem looked ace but I have already done that. Compression Crack looked ace so we climbed that, good grade V ice not a hook in sight! We abseiled off then climbed The Castle, a fun route, most of it fairly easy apart from one grade III crux pitch at the top. Great neve and ice a joy to climb. Kath and her mountaineering team climbed South Castle Gully, very atmospheric with a grade II pitch at the start.

The Shroud, Boomers, Compression Crack, The Castle.

Looking down the impressive scenic South Castle Gully.

05-03-13, Ben Nevis - Winter Climbing

Garry climbing some steep ice on Hadrian's Wall Direct

 On the Ben today, trying to make the most of the excellent ice and conditions present before the wet thaw kicks in later this week. Garry and I climbed Hadrian's Wall Direct - Quality! Great condition as long as you have sharp picks and crampons, hardly any hooks, it was more like pure water ice on the first couple of pitches. There is ice everywhere up high with loads of routes to go at and not many people about, get on it quick before it disappears.

Hadrian's to Point 5 to Observatory Buttress.

It wasn't as steep as the first photo makes it look!

Don't forget to leave 2 spare Ice Screws for the belay or you will belay off this!

04-03-13, Aonach Beag, West Highlands - Winter Climbing

Steep Crux pitch Royal Pardon.

Thanks for the photo Garry.

Got the early gondola up Aonach Mor today, Garry, Gaz and I walked over to Aonach Beag and climbed Royal Pardon. An absolute great route, 4 pitches of good ice climbing, the second of which was quite steep. The ice was great to climb today chewy and took screws well. Stand and Deliver looked steep and a little narrow in the middle but would be climbable.

Aonach Beag North Face, Ice of Royal Pardon on left and Stand and Deliver right.

Pitch 2.

Pitch 4 still some interest - great route.

Stand and Deliver.

Moody Ben Nevis head held high!

02-03-13, Ben Nevis - Winter Climbing

A most excellent Italian Right Hand.

Freezing level high today, plenty of ice still on the Ben though. A fair few teams out, on Orion face, climbing Direct, Directissima, Astral?, Zero, Hadrian's, Point 5, Tower Ridge, Comb, Green, Boomers, Raeburns. We climbed Italian Right Hand, a very enjoyable grade IV pitch. The start was a bit cruddy, but the ice on pitch 2 was ace.

A crudy Italian pitch 1!

Excellent looking bit of ice.

28-02-13, Liathach, Torridon - Winter Climbing

The crux of George, great sticky ice today.

A slight change in proceedings today, the clag and warmth was in and the drizzle had everyone in gore-tex from the minibus. It was a bit of a shock for everyone as the weather has been so fabulous, the mojos were taking a dive! We headed around the back of Liathach to climb the ever reliable George, III,4. The corrie snow was starting to thaw and slush, the ice was chewy and very climbable as to be expected in these conditions!

Umbrella  Falls and Poachers still there just.

27-02-13, Sgorr Ruadh, Glen Carron, NW Highlands - Winter Climbing

The 'easy bit' on Easy Gully, Sgorr Ruadh!

Sgorr Ruadh in the North-West today. We walked up the fine 4 km path to the cliff. Hard neve still about, not many climbs in condition however. The only probable line was Easy Gully to the right of Central Couloir. It has a steep section at the bottom but no gaps yet! It is certainly not guidebook grade II either, definitely some III there not so 'Easy' gully! The view deteriorated through out the day, cloud and dark skies rolling in as the temperature has also started to rise.

The right hand side of  Central Couloir.

Descending hard neve in Central Couloir.