20-03-13, Cul Mor, Coigach, Northern Highlands - Winter Walking

Cul Mor.

 Walk into Coire Gorm on Cul Mor today. Windier than forecast, but freezing level still low and plenty of snow and rime about similar levels to yesterday. We had thought about climbing The Cul on the back of Cul Mor, but when we eventually got there we weren't too psyched with all of the chimney action, as aesthetic a line as it was! Walked up the other side of the corrie for some great views of Stac Pollaidh and the rest of Coigach we bagged the Corbett and walked back. There is a fair amount of wind slab about, it has been windy.

Stac Pollaidh.

Cul Mor Coire Gorm.

Cul Mor, Cul Beag, Stac Pollaidh.

19-03-13, Quinag, Assynt, Northern Highlands - Winter Climbing

Fantastic steep well protected quartzite climbing on Pick Nicker, Quinag

 I have been working in the Cairngorms on an winter climbing course, it has been a considerable avalanche hazard everywhere, so we climbed the Fiaciall on Saturday, then on Sunday abbed in and climbed Anvil Gully on Cha-no crag when we eventually managed to find the crag in the thick soup! Today Kathryn and I drove North with the thought of climbing some ice in Torridon. There has been a lot of snow overnight, Inverness and Garve had plenty by the roads, we were already slightly worried about the snow above the ice! We thought something else maybe a route on Stac Pollaidh just north of Ullapool might give some good sport so we motored on. We arrived in Coigach and Stac Pollaidh was clearly dry and summery - I think to be successful on a winter climb on this micro mountain, you would have to be staying in Ullapool when it comes into condition as the roads from the south would be un passable! We carried on driving further north to Quinag, in the hope that the high quartizite Bucket Buttress would be frozen and have rime on the rocks - luckily it did. The snow line is at about 600m, and harder neve and rime ice is found at about 700m, plenty of  windslab about with rime on the windslab, making it look like neve. We climbed a classic mini route - Pick Nicker V,6 *** well worth the shortish 1.5 hour walk. This crag is ace, short, but steep, corners, cracks and gear everywhere, as good as any pitch in the Northern Corries!

Approaching the crag.

Spidean Coinich, with Bucket Buttress high on its North East Face.

Excellent Corner.

Corners, Cracks and Aretes everywhere.

View at Coigach, Stac Pollaidh just right of centre.

25-02-13, Beinn Dearg, Northern Highlands - Winter Climbing

Mighty West buttress of Beinn Dearg.

A fantastic day today, on Beinn Dearg in the North. We made the long walk up the forestry track to the west buttress. Emerald Gully, Finian etc were not in condition, big gaps and ice not fat enough. Penguin Gully however, is in amazing condition. 3 quality grade III+/IV pitches, with some grade I/II. What a great route, it is a crime that it is not included in Ken Wilson's Cold Climbs. Long walk-in, long run but very satisfying. The Ice Hose has a fair amount of ice on it, but the start is broken, there maybe a way around, the middle section maybe climbable? Conditions are still ace at present.

Fat Ice, pitch 4 of Penguin Gully.

Penguin Gully pitch 1.

Awesome line of Penguin Gully III/IV 320m ****.

Ice Hose middle pitches look brilliant, if only you could get to them!

Fine Plateau walk to summit of Beinn Dearg, Inverpolly mountains in the background.

An Teallach.