27-02-14, Hell's Lum, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

We were starting to develop gills in the NW so decided that even though The Cairngorms are Marks local patch, the weather was going to be optimal and allow us to be more productive. Up at early o'clock drive and arrive at Ski car park at 8am, over the back to Hell's Lum. Deep-cut Chimney in excellent condition, some drippy ice from the sun in the middle of the crag, but deep in the chimney some great icy pitches and a dry mixed climbing finish over the chock stone. Great weather and conditions, snow hard and frozen underfoot almost from car park, some sun and some wind, plenty of views, cornices are still big. A few ski tourers about, a team skied Alladdin's couloir.

28-01-11, Hell's Lum, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

Walking down into Coire Domhain, with a mega view of Carn Etchachan and Shelter Stone.

Another beautifully, stunning day in the Cairngorms. Kath, Matt and I headed back over the back to Hell's Lum today. Busy Coire an t-Sneachda and well trodden stepped path up the goat track. On the other side the sun was shinning bright and warm! Quite busy today, at least 2 teams in Deep-Cut Chimney and a team in Hell's Lum, numerous other teams also headed in as we started to climb. We climbed a combination route of starting on the ice of Brimstone Groove then the mixed finish to Towering Inferno. The ice was thick enough to climb, however the heat of the sun was melting the ice above! Lots of stuff falling off and ice screws were nearly melting out by the time we got to the belays! Very enjoyable day, maybe even got a little sun burn! Cairngorm summit, pt. 1141 and top of Fluted Buttress.

Start of Brimstone Groove IV,4.

Matt enjoying the ice!

17-01-11, Hell's Lum, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing

Carn Etchachan and Shelter Stone from Coire Domhain.

Today is the first day since Wednesday (5 days ago) that the freezing level has been below the summits. Lots of snow has disappeared but there is still plenty in the Cairngorms. Today I was climbing with Gary and Kath, it was a beautiful, sunny day. We headed over the back to see what the climbs were like in the Loch Avon Basin. There is still ice about on Hell's Lum crag, however it is very slushy and dripping, it will need a few more days of freezing weather to make it ace. We climbed Hell's Lum, III (photo - right). Slushy snow covered ice pitch to start, but all climbable. Lots of teams climbing in Corrie an t-Snechada, the buttresses aren't completely black, Aladdin's Mirror direct is still there. All snow that is around is very hard and icy, Goat Track and summits very hard. Weather forecast is for freezing level to stay at 600m and for nice clear days so its time to have it!