08-12-10, Llanberis Pass - Winter Climbing

It is still very wintry in Snowdonia and I have been out climbing the last couple of days. Yesterday I was out with Tim and James. We headed Cwm Lloer and climbed a snowy First Trinity Groove IV,4, then we headed up the icy first pitch of Moonlighting at about III,4 then traversed into Broad Gully to the Summit ridge, a great day.

Today I went out with Norman and John to climb their first ever winter route, we ascended Sergent's Gully II. Enjoyable stepped climbing all the way. It was slightly more busy here with many people out for the solo ascent, plus 3 teams climbing the classic and rare ice formation of Central Ice fall Direct VI,6.

James seconding First Trinity Groove IV,4.

05-12-10, Cwm Lloer, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Busy day in Cwm Lloer today. 3 teams and 3 new routes climbed! I was out with Gaz and Dave, we climbed a new route and called it 'The Whiskey Made Me Late', V, 6 (5,5,6) (photo right - Gaz on second pitch). It starts up a groove between First Trinity and Second Trinity, then takes a counter route to the already climbed winter route First Trinity, climbed by Andy Cave and Rich Cross. A good 3 pitch turfy route, with plenty of gear. A team next to us on the right climbed Third Trinity Groove suggesting VII,7. Tom and Will climbed the rib between Left and Right Y Gully, they said it was a steady grade III and called it 'Don't Forget Your Sole'. There is a lot of snow at present, Tom and Will said they saw and triggered a slide in Left-hand Y Gully.

There was a thaw yesterday and plenty of rain at lower levels, this effect has made the snow heavy in places and with lower temperatures all this week it should firm up nicely.

30-11-10, Cwm Lloer, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Snowdonia is in the grip of winter. Current feel of climbing conditions is that it is very cold, freezing in valleys, not much ice, still forming though, snow is very powdery (groupel) and unhelpful, but the turf is definitely well frozen. Classic ice routes and gullies are not in yet, mixed turf routes and ridges are. I have been stomping around the last 3 days, had a look up on Glyder Fawr upper cliff Sunday, tried to climb Twisting Gully (photo, right - pitch 2) but had abandon due to lack of gear and enough ice to progress. I walked into Black Ladders (photo, above) and saw 2 teams climbing, near East Gully and Passendale. I have had good day in Cwm Lloer today with Kathryn and we climbed Eastern Arete (Lloer Spur) IV,4 (photo, below) and Grooved Ridge IV,5. Both good 3 pitch, turfy routes. An inch of snow fell last night and more is forecast tonight, if is warms up a little then refreezes the snow will be ace, however we will have to settle for frozen turf and powder for the next few days at least!