02-12-10, Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Today, I walked into Cwm Idwal with Kath to have a look at how the ice is forming. There is ice and it is getting fatter however, it is only really Idwal Stream which is in good condition. South Gully is climbable along with The Screen, however they will feel hard for the grade. Other ice climbs may just about be climbable but it will be a few more days before they are in good condition. It was slightly warmer today +1 degrees in the valleys. A slight thaw is forecast over the weekend, so with if gets cold again early next week (fingers crossed) Cascades will be great. We climbed Idwal Stream today in 3 pitches at about grade II+. There were a lot of teams climbing it by midday, and I imagine it will be very busy at the weekend!

South Gully - The Screen.

Devils Appendix area.

07-01-10, Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Another beautiful day today. Another early return to the Idwal before the masses arrived. Myself and Kathryn left the Car park in the dark and there were still 12+ people in front! We climbed Chicane Gully III,3 (3,3). A nice ice pitch to start then some mixed turf on the second. Most routes are being climbed every minute there is daylight. Below is a list of routes that people have been climbing: Idwal Stream, South Gully, Central Gully, Chicane Gully, Devil's Pipes, The Ramp, The Screen, The Curtain (Photo), Devil's Pasture, Devil's Appendage (new VII route but bottom left icicle has disappeared!), Devil's Kitchen, Devil's Appendix, The Sting and The Devil's Cellar... phew.

06-01-10, Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

Conditions in Cwm Idwal are 'primo' at the moment. Pretty much everything is being climbed and it is very busy. A glorious day sunny and crisp.

Today I was climbing with Kathryn and Luke. We got up early and managed to be the 4th team in the Cwm and the first on Central Route III,3 (3,2) which is an ace two pitch route. After, we quickly descended the kitchen it was to the back of the queue for The Devils Cellar IV,4 (4,4). The wait was worth it as yet another excellent ice route.

The ice seems to be getting fatter, low temperatures but still dripping in the day then refreezing at night. -2 degrees in Ogwen car park this evening so set to continue...

Picture featured right is the Luke leading the first pitch of The Devils Cellar, below is the glorious cwm.

04-01-10, Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia - Winter Climbing

It is all kicking off in North Wales. First day out for me this year, having just arrived back from Chamonix, to find an awesome winter wonderland. Right - the queue for The Ramp III,3 and The Screen IV,4. I was climbing in Cwm Idwal today with Kathryn, along with 20 or so other teams! We climbed South Gully IV,4. Very good condition, 3 pitches 3/4/2 excellent thick ice taking long screws. 6 teams climbed this route but teams were also seen on Chicane, The Ramp, The Screen, Devils Pasture, Devils Appendix (top pitch). Basically its awesome at the moment, plenty to do, lots of ice and lots of snow. New and rare routes being climbed all over.

It was sub-zero and also snowed all day, probably 6 inches fell. It was fairly windy as well so I dare say there will be windslab around. More snow forecast overnight, with high winds tomorrow.

Postcard view down the Nant Francon Valley.