Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

04-01-11, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms - Winter Climbing


Plenty of snow in the Eastern Highlands, I went to visit the the northern corries with Kath and found (as suspected) thick rime ice choked buttress and cracks. There was a thaw over new year, which stripped the rocks but it the re froze and snow as wel, making climbing the mixed routes, slightly easier but very bold or laborious tying to find and dig out gear and belay placements. We walked into Coire an Lochan and climbed The Milky Way, III. Over the 100m distance e placed about 6 bit of gear, including belays!
Number 1 buttress with Meall a Bhuachaille in the background.

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