After working at the weekend in Southern Snowdonia, I can report that Maesglase Falls IV,4, near Dollgellau is in great condition, 200m of fat ice.
Very cold, a fair amount of the Mawdach Estuary is frozen. Penmeanpool, looked like Antarctica, with massive blocks of ice floating. Snow down to sea level but was definitely thawing out by Sunday.
Today I was out climbing with Kathryn and Dave, we sort out this classic climb - Mask of Death V,5 (5,4,2). The ice accepted screws and axes very well, the first pitch was steep grade V,5 and the second shorter and stepped IV,4. Overall excellent *** route.
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